Puglia of Little Italy

Little Italy contracts even more in East Meadow. But Puglia, bambino of the Hester Street original, keeps the Sunday gravy flowing and the Sirius Sinatra playing. And it livens up eating out, briefly turning a stretch of Hempstead Turnpike into the unofficial Hester Street extension, complete with kitschy decor, some live music and autographed photos.

THE BEST

What's very good are the soulful pastas. Wavy campanile tossed with perfectly cooked eggplant, tomato, raisins and pine nuts; and small shells with olive oil, cauliflower and bread crumbs evoke Sicily and could earn Puglia each of its stars. Likewise, the linguine with white clam sauce, garlicky but not overly so, loaded with vongole. Lasagna: husky, meaty, ready to feed the soccer team. Gnocchi benefit from a savory, scarlet ground meat sauce. Cavatelli with broccoli rabe, olive oil, garlic and slices of sweet sausage also shine. The house's "arancini Angelina" translates into a major rice ball, bigger than a mega-hamburger, filled with chopped meat and peas, capped with a dollop of ricotta and lots of crimson sauce. Refresh yourself with the chopped salad, sparked by blue cheese and hearts of palm. Red snapper marechiaro, in a red sea full of shellfish, leads the school of fish. Plenty of steaks here, tender and juicy, prepared pizzaiola, if you like; plus straightforward Parmigianas, eggplant and chicken. Have sauteed, long hot peppers, escarole and/or broccoli rabe on the side. The coupe of cannoli cream with three shells and a spoon is the fine, do-it-yourself finale.

THE REST

The roasted, double-cut pork chop with apples, mushrooms and Asiago cheese arrives moist but sauced too sweetly. Sauteed shrimp aren't helped by pasty risotto. Singed stuffed artichoke, overdone garlic bread, chicken scarpariello heavy on the rosemary.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Tarantella.

Reviewed by Peter M. Gianotti, 2/27/09