Review: Ravagh Persian Grill in Huntington

Many Long Island restaurants smudge the lines between the distinct cuisines of Iran, Turkey, Greece and the Levant (Israel and the Arab world). But, since 2002, Ravagh Persian Grill has stood proudly as an avatar of Persian cooking, a tradition that goes back millennia before the country took on the name "Iran" in 1935.

An offshoot of owner Masoud Tehrani’s Manhattan original (est. 1998), Ravagh's Roslyn Heights location is currently undergoing a major renovation, but you can still dine at the 13-year-old Huntington location, a space that manages to combine industrial chic with a touch of the exotic.

Kebabs rule here. Savory kebab barg (marinated beef tenderloin) and kebab koobideh, a blend of ground beef and lamb, are deeply satisfying. But the jujeh kebab is a standout. Essentially, it's a cut-up Cornish hen that has been marinated in saffron and herbs before being run through and grilled to burnished perfection. There’s no way to eat it daintily, but you will feel a sense of profound satisfaction when all that’s left on your plate is a pile of bones.

Persian cooks are masters of rice cookery and every kebab comes with a pile of aromatic, long-grain basmati. The default is a green "polo" (pilaf) with dill and fava beans, but you can upgrade to albaloo polo (featuring sweet and sour cherries), zereshk polo (saffron and barberries). Along with homey stews and braises, vegetable dishes abound, including silky kashk bademjan, which combines roasted eggplant with kashk (dried whey) for a dish that vividly captures eggplant’s essence. Another great vegetable dish (though not vegetarian) is the soft ball-sized stuffed pepper, overflowing with a hauntingly spiced mixture of lamb and rice, the walls so tender, they give with the side of a fork.

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