Trillium Fox (cq), of St. James, hangs out at he...

Trillium Fox (cq), of St. James, hangs out at he bar at Ruvo in Port Jefferson. (January 23, 2010) Credit: Photo by Kirsten Luce

Walking around downtown Port Jefferson builds an appetite. And on Main Street, there are plenty of ways to satisfy it. Eateries abound all around the village, with many from Wynn Lane to the waterfront, along Main Street itself and on the blocks that lead into it. Start eating.

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34 E. Broadway, 631-477-8500,

Food: 2 1/2 stars
Cost: $$-$$$

Creative and full-flavored New American cooking makes The Fifth Season one of the village's top destinations. Originally in Greenport, it's now a mainstay here. Sample chef Eric Orlowski's local clam chowder, Vidalia onion soup, hamachi crudo with citrus, trio of pork preparations, braised short ribs and the terrific desserts.

115 Main St., 631-928-8868

Food: 1 star
Cost: $-$$

This casual spot is recommended for uncomplicated Japanese dishes and for sushi. You'll find earnest service and a familiar menu. Some good choices include the house's colorful, special sushi rolls; udon noodles with vegetables; shrimp dumplings, steamed or fried; salmon teriyaki and temperas.

318 Wynn Lane, 631-331-9200,

Food: 1 1/2 stars
Cost: $$$

The scion of Pace's in Hauppauge delivers a straightforward steakhouse menu in a vintage setting. Go for porterhouse, filet mignon, shell steak, big lobsters. Dissenters can veer to linguine with red or white clam sauce, rack of lamb, double-cut pork chops. For all: escarole and beans, creamed spinach assorted potatoes.

216 Main St., 631-331-4646,

Food: 1 star
Cost: $-$$

The attraction is, of course, pizza. The Pie specializes in the Neapolitan variety, coal-fired from a brick oven. Stick with the staples, such as Margherita and white. Adventurers can foray into "barbecue," and "Buffalo," complete with chicken and blue cheese. Five Parmigianas, calzones and basic pastas compete.

105 Wynn Lane, 631-476-3800,

Food: 2 stars
Cost: $$-$$$

Savory Italian fare defines this Ruvo, the offspring of Ruvo in Greenlawn. Attentive, friendly service and a sunny dining room keep winter away. So do chefs Joseph DeNicola and Anthony D'Amico's five-cheese lasagna, gnocchi Bolognese, rice balls with sausage and provolone, and chicken scarpariello with sausage, peppers, onions and roasted potatoes.

25 E. Broadway, 631-928-5200,

Food: 1 1/2 stars
Cost: $-$$$

The all-seasons restaurant at Danfords Hotel & Marina offers a water view, plus breakfast, lunch, dinner, pub fare and a spin on tapas. A pleasant location and tasty dishes that include pulled pork, fish-and-chips, sesame-seared tuna, crab cakes, steaks, sushi and a spin on tapas in the lounge.

Port Jefferson visitors also can enjoy these eateries, among others.

COSTA DE ESPAÑA: 9 Traders Cove, 631-331-5363, Cost $$-$$$. Traditional Spanish cuisine.

PASTA PASTA: 234 E. Main St., 631-331-5335, Cost $$. What's in a name? Almost everything.

TIGER LILY CAFE: 156 E. Main St., 631-476-7080, Cost $. Vegetarian central, from wraps and sandwiches to juice and Java.

Z PITA: 217 Main St., 631-476-7510, Cost $. "Athens to Rome," moussaka to eggplant Parm, lots of pita plates, plus fondue.

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