The Plaza Cafe in Southampton recharged, redirected and relaxed its...

The Plaza Cafe in Southampton recharged, redirected and relaxed its cuisine in 2012. Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

Changing the style of a major restaurant is an operation both big and delicate. Risks abound. Here are two establishments that remade themselves and became more exciting in the process:

MIRABELLE RESTAURANT

The original Mirabelle in St. James was classic French. After moving to Stony Brook's Three Village Inn, it also opened a more casual tavern. Now, the two basically are one outstanding farm-to-table experience, from sliders to grass-fed beef.

150 Main St., Stony Brook; 631-751-0555

THE PLAZA CAFE

One of Long Island's best seafood restaurants recharged, redirected and relaxed its cuisine in 2012. The flavors became bolder and more refined, too. The result: richer and lighter. And you can still order the exceptional lobster-and-shrimp shepherd's pie, plus local fluke sashimi.

61 Hill St., Southampton; 631-283-9323

 
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