Review: Tellers: An American Chophouse in Islip

This stunning, restored bank-turned-restaurant, which celebrated a quarter-century milestone last year, is the crown jewel of the Bohlsen Restaurant Group, which also includes the waterside Prime in Huntington and H20 in Smithtown. The grand dining room, which boasts a soaring ceiling, 25-foot windows, and deep red upholstery on spacious banquettes and chairs, is one of the more exceptional spaces on culinary Long Island. Equally important, the food matches the vibe of the room, which is enhanced by light jazz in the din.

Past the gleaming copper bar and cocktail lounge, carts manned by attentive staff traverse the dining room floor delivering fat steaks to hungry diners. Starters include wedge salads and French onion soup, but also jammy black pepper bacon, signature duck fat fries, baby lamb chops with mint bordelaise, and an oversized crab cake. The miniature loaf of sesame-potato bread served with black truffle butter is a must. Seafood ranges from a limited raw bar to Kumamoto and local Blue Point oysters, steamed lobsters and fish entrees such as miso black cod, and a Long Island flounder Oreganata. But make no mistake, this is a steakhouse first and last.

There are impeccably sourced, 35-day, dry-aged cuts from rib eye to New York strip to a porterhouse for two; American (Snake River Farms) and Japanese wagyu options are on offer, as well as classic cuts like filet and skirt steak, plus a nostalgic Wellington that draws raves. Enhance with a Parmesan crust or au poivre sauce, blue cheese, bernaise, or bone marrow butter.

Requisite sides include tater tots smothered in Gruyere and horseradish, caramelized Brussel sprouts with honey and pancetta, lobster mac and cheese, blistered green beans and loaded baked potatoes. For dessert, the cheesecake is from Junior’s. But we suggest the blondie bottom banana cream pie washed down by a salted caramel martini.

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