Star chef Michael Meehan returns to the address where his career was launched, with American-style bistro River Road in Oyster Bay. Different year, different restaurant. 

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Jumbo lump crabcakes are sparked by pickled corn relish, a red pepper purée and red mustard greens at River Road in Oyster Bay.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

River Road in Oyster Bay is at the former site of the Mill River Inn.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

The dining room at River Road in Oyster Bay transforms the style of earlier restaurants.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Shell steak frites shows up exactly as ordered, with husky house fries, at River Road in Oyster Bay.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

River Road in Oyster Bay serves a Montauk "tuna Nicoise," which swims in seared so it's sushi-red at the center, accented with cured olives, farm greens, and a sliced egg from Goodale Farms in Riverhead. 

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Moist, plump, perfectly grilled "freebird" chicken, paired with fingerling potatoes and tender root vegetables, is served at River Road in Oyster Bay.

Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Chef Michael Meehan in the kitchen of River Road in Oyster Bay.

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