Roots Bistro Gourmand opens in West Islip

Expect ambitious and updated French cuisine at Roots Bistro Gourmand, the new West Islip restaurant from the former chefs of O's Food and Wine Bar in St. James.

Philippe Corbet is the executive chef and James Orlandi the general manager at Roots, which moved into the site long-occupied by Parkwood Cafe. They're co-owners of Roots.

The look is bistro, from tin ceiling to zinc bar to reclaimed wood flooring. The fare takes some international turns but emphasizes local ingredients.

Among the appetizers: pressed suckling pig with caramelized hearts of palm and caramel-lavender honey; roasted marrow bone; vegetable ravioli; and a risotto “lollipop.” Main dishes include butter-poached lobster, dry-aged rib steak; and bouillabaisse. Raw oysters, charcuterie and tasting menus also are available, along with plenty of wines by the glass.

Roots Bistro Gourmand is open Tuesday to Sunday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Main courses, $22 to $38; appetizers. $8 to $16.

Roots Bistro Gourmand, 399 Montauk Hwy., West Islip; 631-587-2844.

Risotto lollipops.