THE DISH Jerk chicken

UNDER THE SKIN In this spiffy, friendly eat-in/takeout cafe, chicken pieces are coated in a mix of jerk seasoning, burned sugar, herbs and hot peppers. The chicken is baked, then sauteed and finally finished in the oven. What you get is chicken that's beautifully nuanced rather than just spicy-hot.

THE DEAL Small order $8; large order, $10. Comes with two side dishes

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 2/18/09.

 
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