Singleton's Salsa Shack at Tobay Beach

The early evening air is heavy with the scent of sea; the sun is shrouded in warm haze. It's just the kind of night for dinner at Singleton's Salsa Shack at Tobay Beach.

The Salsa Shack is perched above the sand. Even so, you can still see the water and watch the gulls flying overhead.

If there's a wait for a table, grab a seat on one of the comfortable couches in the outdoor lounge area. I don't get a chance to park there, since an umbrella table on the deck near the sheltered pavilion comes up right away.

A glass of fruity red sangria gets the evening going; grilled chorizo spices it up. While an appetizer of seviche is made with grilled shrimp in tomato-cilantro-onion-lime sauce rather than the more authentic raw white fish "cooked" by citrus, it's still pretty good.

A compadre's fajitas feature chicken that's a bit overdone, but guacamole and salsa help mask the deficit. A combination plate (an enchilada filled with cheese, a burrito with shredded beef and a crisp corn taco topped with chicken) is familiar food; while it may not rock your world, it won't do it harm either.

Most successful are two salads served (gringo style) in fried taco shells. In one, smoky tender grilled skirt steak salad is set over mixed greens, avocado and mango tossed with a perky lime vinaigrette. In the other, pineapple salsa dressing tops a summery grilled sliced shrimp salad.

You can end the meal with apple chimichangas or deep-fried ice cream. I prefer a shoreline walk.

Singleton's Salsa Shack is located at Tobay Beach, 1 Ocean Pkwy., Massapequa, 516-826-1610