Tuna pizza at Hotoke restaurant in Smithtown.

Tuna pizza at Hotoke restaurant in Smithtown. Credit: Teresa Gianotti/

On the other side of the etched glass, you still see flames shoot upward and the clanging of metal as if a sword fight is under way. But that's just the hibachi chef in action

In the main dining area, there's the contrast of the silent sushi chefs diligently slicing and rolling. But they have some colorful stuff to showcase, too.

This is Hotoke, two restaurants in one.

The tuna pizza is one of sushi chefs' entertainments. On a housemade scallion pancake, they put together a topping of bluefin tuna, white tuna and onion, drizzled with tofu-wasabi aioli. What could be a genuine mess actually becomes a flavorful, whimsical, good-looking creation.

And the chef's choice sushi-and-sashimi presentation includes pearly, delicate sliced scallop and buttery sea urchin, plus very colorful, very good rolls combining tuna and asparagus; and spicy crab and mango.

The action is subtler, the flavors better. Not much in the way of dessert here. But you'll be in a shopping center that boasts Alpine Bakery and Uncle Giuseppe's.

Hotoke earned a two-star rating in Newsday in 2008. The restaurant is expected to unveil an updated menu, with more fusion fare, next week.

Hotoke, 41 Rte. 111, Smithtown' 631-979-9222.

Tuna pizza at Hotoke.

 
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