Spuntino, Dix Hills, revisited

Margherita pizza at Spuntino in Dix Hills Credit: Newsday, Joan Reminick
When Spuntino first opened in Dix Hills, back in 2007, it was little more than a pizzeria with a few booths in the back. Crisp wood-oven pies were a big attraction, and just about anything with the restaurant’s vibrant red sauce made for really good eating.
A recent visit revealed major changes. The place has more than doubled in size, with two new dining rooms, one large enough for private parties.
The wood-oven Margherita pie I had was good as ever.
But, yikes, what happened to Spuntino’s tomato sauce? Eggplant Parmigiana and a side of penne were both undone by a sauce that managed to be simultaneously bland and sugar-sweet.
Spuntino is at 687 Old Country Rd., Dix Hills, 631-547-9300.
Above: Margherita pizza at Spuntino in Dix Hills