9. George Martin's Strip Steak, Great River The peak of...

9. George Martin's Strip Steak, Great River

The peak of the George Martin Group restaurants, Strip Steak updates the steakhouse approach, making it work for more than carnivores. Excellent service and consistently fine American cooking are the lures at George Martin's Strip Steak, a deluxe offspring of the original George Martin in Rockville Centre. It's a prime site that looks grand, at the end of the Southern State Parkway. Recommended: oysters Rockefeller, crabmeat cocktail, crabcake, porterhouse steak for two, filet mignon, maple-brined Berkshire pork chop, merlot-braised short ribs, apple crisp.

Read our critic's review Credit: Doug Young, 2011

George Martin's Strip Steak has lightened up for spring and summer.

The restaurant, which earned a two-and-one-half star rating in Newsday, has added some warm-weather fare to the menu. But carnivores, be advised, there's still plenty of excellent red meat here.

Alternatives include chicken bruschetta, with goat cheese, tomatoes and toasted challah;  chicken prepared two ways, sauteed and finished in a white wine-lemon and caper sauce and an updated Parmigiana, with a paillard paired with stewed tomato sauce, mozzarella and pecorino Romano; a shellfish stew with roasted vegetables; and skewered shrimp with grilled asparagus and spinach-lemon risotto.

George Martin's Strip Steak, 60 River Rd., Great River' 631-650-6777.

Steak still reigns.

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