Syosset: Filling up at Phil's

Phil's is busting. One more slice, one more customer and the whole place looks like it could spread into the parking lot. It's a weekend night and everyone is hungry.

No one leaves that way at Phil's Pizzeria & Restaurant, where the portions are as extreme as the price tag is moderate. More important, the food is very good, whether you're here for the expansive pizza-pasta-Parmigiana repertoire of either sturdier or subtler stuff.

"Rocco's Grilled Pork Chops" go whole hog: two big ones, under a mantle of fiery cherry peppers. It makes a lot of versions seem tailored for the timid. This is truly hot. For a mellower taste, consider the lentil soup or the pasta e fagioli, a side of sauteed escarole or broccoli rabe. The eggplant rollatine is a stand-out rendition. And there are some lively salads, too.

Phil's is at 265 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-364-6900/6911.

Phil's goes beyond mozzarella.