At A Taste of Country in Riverhead, carnitas tacos can...

At A Taste of Country in Riverhead, carnitas tacos can be enjoyed on the porch. (May 27, 2012) Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

On a recent trip to the North Fork, one of my most enjoyable meals was also one of the cheapest: two pork carnitas tacos paired with a Mexican Jarritos soda (tamarind flavor) on the shady porch of A Taste of Country in Jamesport. The pork had been braised into tender submission, and shared its soft corn tortillas with a little chopped onion, radish, cilantro and a homemade salsa ranchera of roasted tomatoes, jalapeños and garlic. This bill was about $6.

A Taste of Country had long been an American-style deli, but in March 2011, it was taken over by Luis Siguencia, who is also head chef at World Pie in Bridgehampton. Under his ownership, the place has expanded its menu and ambitions. Along with American-style sandwiches, wraps and salads are tamales, nachos, Mexican tortas, quesadillas, burritos, fajitas and enchiladas — not to mention lasagna and manicotti. On weekends, Taste of Country also serves barbacoa (shredded braised beef), hornado con mote (pulled pork with corn hominy) and seviche.

As summer heats up, Siguencia said, he’ll be using more and more local vegetables, many of which come from Reeve Farm in Riverhead.

A Taste of Country is at 5506 Sound Ave., Jamesport, 631-779-2791.