Medford, N.Y. --- May, 2010 -- Mixed grill platter at...

Medford, N.Y. --- May, 2010 -- Mixed grill platter at Angora in Medford. (Newsday Photo/Joan Reminick) ltc Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

Angora in Medford is not so much a restaurant as a few tables in a Turkish market. The place is convenient to the LIE; the food is as authentic and satisfying as it is inexpensive. The downside: You order at the counter. Plates are paper, cutlery is plastic.

Highlights of a recent meal included a spirited version of ezme salad, a mélange of tomatoes, chopped vegetables and spices, followed by a mixed grill: juicy chicken and lamb kebab, house-made gyro, well-seasoned Adana and kofte kebabs, both made from minced lamb and a variety of spices. The meat was served over a wholesome-tasting bulgur pilaf.

Angora is at 2690 Rte. 112, Medford, 631-289-6970.

Mixed grill plate at Angora, Medford/Joan Reminick