The enclosed patio at The Bellport restaurant, located at 159...

The enclosed patio at The Bellport restaurant, located at 159 South Country Rd. Credit: Adam Richins

 The Bellport is your ideal country restaurant. It's bucolic, lively, attractive, full of delectable flavors.

This is an eatery with a personality. The service is friendly and efficient, the mood of the place upbeat, and the customers invariably satisfied.

The restaurant is driven by a restless kitchen. The new American cuisine changes regularly, so it's unlikely you'll find the same dish on a second visit. But don't be concerned. They're consistent.

Over the years, some favorites dishes have been the tasty cornmeal-crusted oysters and the excellent warm, spinach salad. Buttermilk fried chicken and smoked roast duck etouffee give you an idea of the range, and they're both first-rate. Crab cakes arrive plump and flavor-packed. And steak frites suites the establishment, too.

Pick at random among the seasonal desserts. But always look for berries and peaches.

Peter M. Gianotti

Top Stories