The Flour Shoppe Café in Rockville Centre offers the Le...

The Flour Shoppe Café in Rockville Centre offers the Le Grande BLT, which includes thick-cut bacon glazed with maple syrup on a schmear of bacon jam, a mix of mesclun and watercress, herb aioli and tomatoes. Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus

The Flour Shoppe Café is making a name for itself in Rockville Centre for homemade baked goods, over-the-top breakfasts and innovative sandwiches. The Sunrise Highway spot used to be Roe’s Casa Dolce, and owners Samantha Caltagirone and Madison Kaer worked for Roe’s when it was still owned by Rosemarie Caruso. (Caruso sold in 2010; the new owners closed the place last year.)

Caltagirone and Kaer transformed the space with a retro-rustic décor — including light fixtures made out of box graters and industrial whisks — and opened in June 2015. In November, they engaged chef John Maher, the founding executive chef at EAT Gastropub in Oceanside, who earned three stars from Newsday.

A good example of Maher’s style is his Le Grande BLT, at which he has thrown everything in his arsenal: The thick-cut bacon has been glazed with maple syrup and, for good measure, it sits on a schmear of bacon jam. The lettuce is a lively mix of mesclun and watercress, the mayo is herb aioli, the tomatoes, even in March, are ripe and red. Not satisfied with toasting his bread, Maher slathers it with butter and griddles it until crisp.

Other sandwiches include a pressed, crispy eggplant focaccia and a prosciutto tartine with artichokes, oven-roasted tomato, tapenade, pickled onions and goat cheese. There are also salads, bowls, omelets and soups.

Breakfast, served until 11 a.m., features home-fried breakfast poutine with Parmesan, eggs and red-eye gravy; French toast with berries, chocolate ganache and whipped cream and a granola parfait.

In the bakery case are cookies, brownies, muffins, tarts both sweet and savory, croissants and more. Maher just completed a course in artisan baking at the International Culinary Center in Manhattan and plans to add a full bread program. Dinner is also in the offing. Stay tuned. For now hours are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Saturday and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sunday.

486 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre, 516-536-2253,

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