The Trattoria in St. James and more Long Island restaurants to try this weekend

In the classic lyric of Lorenz Hart, "Each day is Valentine's Day." So, why wait until next week? Here are three restaurants that suit the mood this weekend - and all weekends.

The Trattoria in St. James is a cozy, countrified spot that seems removed from the hectic pace you may keep. Recommended: housemade ricotta and sundried tomato tapenade; tomato-braised meatballs on polenta; 'nduja sausage and buffalo mozzarella flatbread; Peconic Bay scallops with squash puree and pecan butter; bucatini carbonara; pappardelle Bolognese; lasagna Bolognese; red wine brasato with creamy polenta; black-and-white creme brulee. Cash or check only; BYOB. Expensive.

The Trattoria, 532 N. Country Rd., St. James, 631-584-3518, thetrattoriarestaurant.com

Pier 95 in Freeport offers a perch on Hudson Canal as well as Mediterranean cuisine and Portuguese fare. Recommended: potato soup with collard greens and chourico sausage; steamed littleneck clams; salt cod with roasted peppers; cod with herbaceous tomato sauce; grilled swordfish with lemon-ginger sauce; paella Valenciana; crab cakes with Dijon mayonnaise; steak Diane; rack of lamb; bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin; roasted duck with blueberry sauce. Moderate to expensive.

Pier 95, 95 Hudson Ave., Freeport, 516-379-9898, pier95.com

La Plage in Wading River is a charming hideaway that, of course, faces the beach. You'll want to visit for the food as much as the location. Recommended: raw oysters and clams; gold and red beet salad with goat cheese; tricolor salad with ricotta salata, Marcona almonds, and kumquats; applewood smoked beef "carpaccio;" pappardelle with spicy tomato sauce, shellfish, and chorizo sausage; duck leg confit with chive risotto; herb-crusted striped bass with dragon tongue beans, braised escarole, grilled lemon, and black mussel broth. Expensive.

La Plage, 131 Creek Rd., Wading River, 631-744-9200, laplagewadingriver.com