This week's restaurant reviews

Joan Reminick finds herself stirred by the calamari with fresh ginger, garlic and cilantro, and the seared wild-caught salmon in a sun-dried tomato butter sauce with spinach and mashed potatoes, both served at Ocean Grill in Freeport. She gives the restaurant two stars.

Peter M. Gianotti gives two stars to Gulf Coast Kitchen by Robbin Haas, who emphasizes local seafood at the renovated restaurant at the Montauk Yacht Club. The chef excels in his lobster preparations, Gianotti writes, whether bisqued, poached, grilled or roasted.

Wild salmon at Ocean Grill in Freeport.