WAVE Seafood Kitchen in Port Jefferson offers homemade pappardelle pasta...

WAVE Seafood Kitchen in Port Jefferson offers homemade pappardelle pasta prepared with sausage and leek cream. (Oct. 24, 2011) Credit: Doug Young

Eccentricity and excess are the norm at Angelina’s Fireshack Pizzeria in New Hyde Park. Joan Reminick finds that the oddball pizzas — Woweee Maui with bacon and pineapple, hamburger-driven Big Mack and a tandoor-topped Desi — actually work.

In Port Jefferson, new chef Jonathan Levine has transformed WAVE, at Danfords Hotel & Marina. “It’s easily the best dining room here in memory, recent or distant,” writes Peter Gianotti.

Homemade pappardelle with sausage and leek cream at Wave