Havana Central: This big, bold, brassy eatery pays homage to...

Havana Central: This big, bold, brassy eatery pays homage to the Havana before the revolution. You'll find knockout mojitos and a menu of such Latin specialties as empanadas, ropa vieja (shredded skirt steak with peppers and onions), garlicky-good shrimp mofongo and, of course, a Cuban sandwich. Credit: Barbara Alper

Critic Peter M. Gianotti made his way this week to The Basil Leaf Cafe Ristorante in Locust Valley and awarded it two stars. He says the Italian fare put forth by the kitchen is “a competitor with many of its nearby rivals in Glen Cove.'' He calls the pappardelle with  sausage ragu and porcini mushroom “husky and assertive.''

For a taste of  “Cuba before the revolution,''  mojitos, salsa music and all, Joan Reminick went to the new Havana Central Restaurant & Bar in Roosevelt Field. She liked the whimsical shrimp seviche, served with style in a martini glass, but says it's probably the lively Latin music that will keep you going back. She awards the restaurant one and a half stars.

While you're reading about Roosevelt Field, check out Reminick's story “Beyond the Food Court'' in which she declares the shopping mall a true dining destination with nine sit-down restaurants, each worth a visit of their own.