Grilled sardines are served at Noah's, a new small-plate restaurant...

Grilled sardines are served at Noah's, a new small-plate restaurant on Front Street in Greenport. (March 27, 2010) Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Getting toasty. Getting humid. Getting ready to eat. Here are three restaurants that suit the season, with some refreshment so you'll be ready to head to the beach on the weekend.

The Buccaneer Crab House in Freeport lures you with lots of blue-crab claws, steamed lobster, sauteed shrimp, fried oysters, a po'boy sandwich, baked clams. And the landlocked can try braised short ribs. The crab house is at 108 W. Merrick Rd., Freeport; 516-442-1151.

Enjoying its first summer: three-star Noah's in Greenport. This small-bites treat from Noah Schwartz, the last chef at The Seafood Barge, stands out with filleted and grilled sardines with piquillo peppers, crisp Tasmanian red-crab tacos, yellowtail crudo, a buttery lobster roll. Dissenters can bite into a Kobe-beef burger. Noah's is at 136 Front St., Greenport; 631-477-6720.

New to the Hamptons: The Boathouse in East Hampton, waterside on Three Mile Harbor.  Look for grilled baby octopus salad and rock-shrimp tempura, fluke sashimi and crab cakes. The carnivorous can veer toward satays, steaks, burgers, rack of lamb. The Boathouse is at 39 Gann Rd., East Hampton; 631-329-3663.

At Noah's: filleted and grilled sardines, with piquillo peppers, basil, lemon aioli.