Tokyo

Tokyo, a tiny Japanese restaurant nearly hidden away in a sideways-facing strip mall in East Northport, offers more than just the usual sushi-tempura-teriyaki roster. Korean-born chef-owner Sunny Yun augments his menu with a list of homestyle Korean specialties.

You'll start with a gratis bowl of edamame (soy beans), which are curiously addictive. A must-order, the Korean pancakes with vegetables, will bring to mind latkes. They're wonderful.

Share a rainbow #1 roll with spicy tuna and/or a fluke tempura roll before moving on to main courses.

Bulgoki, Korean barbecued beef, is pleasing, although a bit sweet. More adventuorous palates will like the dak gui, spicy Korean chicken. The Japanese standards are all fine--chicken teriyaki, shrimp tempura, nabeyaki udon.

Finish with green tea. And plan to return.

Joan Reminick