A charcuterie board at Tullulah's in Bay Shore.

A charcuterie board at Tullulah's in Bay Shore. Credit: Daniel Brennan

American cuisine, new and traditional, refined and edgy, is on the menu this week. Here are three restaurants that wave the flag in their own distinctive and flavor-packed ways.

Tullulah's in Bay Shore could easily sport a 11211 ZIP code instead of 11706. It's as much Brooklyn as Suffolk, lively and tasty. Recommended: meat and cheese boards, BLT salad, rib-eye carpaccio, chorizo with sriracha aioli. grilled oysters, poached octopus, pan-seared halibut, 'nduja-filled agnolotti, pan-seared Berkshire pork chop, bone-in rib-eye steak, and, at lunch or brunch, chicken and waffles, fried chicken sandwich, patty melt with pork belly and egg. Moderate to expensive.

Tullulah's 12 Fourth Ave., Bay Shore, 631-969-9800, tullulahs.com

Barney's in Locust Valley has become a local landmark. The building dates to 1893. The namesake Barney weighed 720 pounds. His 10-foot belt is part of the décor. Your appetite will be big, too. Recommended: Maryland crabcake with lemon-caper emulsion; wedge salad with blue cheese, tomato, and smoked bacon; tuna tartare and smoked salmon napoleon; braised pork ribs; Long Island duck seared breast and confit of leg; herb-crusted rack of lamb; warm banana bread pudding. Expensive.

Barney's 315 Buckram Rd., Locust Valley, 516-671-6300, barneyslv.com

Sandbar in Cold Spring Harbor is a bright and inviting restaurant, with executive chef Guy Reuge of Mirabelle in Stony Brook designing the menu. Recommended: chickpea fries with sriracha aioli; duck tacos; fluke fritters; tuna tartare; corn chowder with crab ragout; seasonal oysters; grilled swordfish; pan-seared halibut; roasted striped bass; bucatini with manila clams; seared lamb chops; Long Island duck duo; cheeseburger with bacon-onion marmalade and Cheddar. Expensive.

Sandbar, 55 Main St., Cold Spring Harbor, 631-498-6188, lessings.com

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