New Hyde Park: Two by Four

It’s Long Island’s most spectacular restaurant opening since Limani landed, in all its Hellenic glory, on Northern Boulevard in Roslyn.

“Spare no expense” doesn’t begin to capture the all-singing, all-dancing Two Steak & Sushi Den which opened on Friday in New Hyde Park, the newest venture from the folks who brought you Melville’s exquisitely named Four Food Studio & Cocktail Salon.

Both restaurants are co-owned by Ray Sidhom and Jay Grossman, the managing partner. The executive chef is Four's James McDevitt, who left the Melville kitchen in the capable hands of his former sous chef, Ben Durham. Grossman’s right-hand man is general manager Jack Chang, a Nobu veteran who most recently opened Nobu in Moscow.

Whereas “Four” refers to the seasons according to which that restaurant’s menu changes, “Two” can be interpreted almost endlessly. There’s the steak and sushi of the name: the menu is divided fairly evenly between Japanese-inspired delicacies (McDevitt is half Japanese) and reimagined steakhouse fare. But “Two” also suggests East and West, light and dark, food and drink . . . as well as the double-digit-million-dollar budget.

The sprawling dining areas (total seats: 200) comprise a bar and lounge, a sushi-yakitori bar, a casual “café,” a formal dining room and two private dining rooms. But half the free-standing building is occupied by a vast kitchen operation that looks more like a restaurant-supply showroom. Not only is chef McDevitt making naan in his own tandoori oven, he is churning his own butter.

“We built him a Ferrari,” Grossman said of the chef. “Now he’s going to take it out for a drive.”

For now, the restaurant is open for dinner only. Look for lunch around mid-April. Two Steak & Sushi Den is located at 1270 Union Tpke., New Hyde Park, 516-358-2222.

REVIEW: Four Food Studio in Melville

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Two's general manager, Jack Chang, in the sushi-yakitori bar. Newsday photo / Erica Marcus