Umberto's taking over former Frank's Steaks in Jericho

When one door closes, another opens — that’s the case for Umberto’s Oyster Bay outpost, a sliver of a pizza shop on Main Street that closed last weekend. The Long Island pizzeria empire is moving into the former Frank’s Steaks in Jericho, which closed in 2024 after 35 years along Jericho Turnpike.

Although the Oyster Bay storefront spent 47 years as Nino’s Pizza, in 2020 the family behind Umberto’s took over the 650-square-foot space as the pandemic wreaked havoc. Being a takeout and delivery spot, the Oyster Bay location flourished in the contactless environment. "I opened and immediately was profitable 'cause low overhead, tiny store. I was just sending pizzas out the door," said co-owner Carla Loeven, one of the many family members involved in the Corteo family’s pizza business.

But as the Oyster Bay store became a fixture in the community, Loeven, who is also involved in the Wantagh and Sayville restaurants, as well as Village Pizza in Floral Park (also owned by Umberto’s), wanted seating. They tried to expand next door, but "the building, structurally, wouldn't work," she said. After a search for another Oyster Bay property, Loeven’s landlord led her to the vacant Frank’s Steaks. It's not in Oyster Bay, but also not too far away. With no other pizza joint in that strip mall, and an upcoming renovation of the entire shopping center, Loeven and her family jumped at the opportunity. The new Umberto’s — which is about to undergo a gut renovation, pending permits — will take over half the original Frank’s space with hopes of opening before the summer.

Fans can expect the same solid Umberto’s food they know and love, starting with the sauce. "My biggest thing is that I yell at everyone: ‘Everyone has to try the tomato sauce every single day, because if it's not right, nothing that's coming out of this kitchen is right,’ " Loeven said.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com@mariesworlds

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.