Village Square in Lynbrook: Mixed medium

Village Square describes itself as a "drinking and dining experience."

The order is right.

There are plenty of good brews on tap at this streamlined, new spot, where Monday night football, unlimited chicken wings and Coors Light are sure to swell the crowd. It's an upbeat joint, decorated with evocative black-and-white photos that balance the color TVs.

One of the pictures is the classic image of construction workers at the in-progress RCA (now GE) Building. They're  having lunch while seated on a girder, 840 feet above the street. And they probably had a better meal than I did.

The acceptable choices are chicken wings; routine braised, boneless spare rib with mashed potatoes, spinach and pickled onions; and the roasted salmon with shrimp risotto.  Avoid the baby back ribs, fried pickles, pulled-pork quesadilla and meatloaf.

Great South Bay's blood-orange pale ale, however, is just fine.

Village Square, 23 Atlantic Ave., Lynbrook; 516-593-6600.