Steakhouse, Italian, wine bar — Vittorio's in Amityville definitely is the sum of its parts.

Based on a recent dinner, the steakhouse side has the most appeal at this downtown mainstay, in a landmark, corner building.

Very good choices from that genre include the crabmeat cocktail, the dry-aged New York strip steak and sides such as mashed potatoes and crisp, fried onions.

Just don't ask for the steak prepared alla pizzaiola. The Italian section at Vittorio's isn't so consistent. There's some irony here, since Vittorio's now-closed offspring, Vero, twice earned high ratings for its small-plate, Italian fare.

Now, you may enjoy a pretty modest salumi-and-cheese plate for the table. It includes prosciutto, mortadella, provolone and Asiago, some olives, roasted peppers, a sweet relish. They'd all fit in a husky hero sandwich.

The cheese to sample, however, is the increasingly available burrata, the mozzarella-and-cream favorite, served with roasted peppers. If you're up for pasta, the bucatini with short-rib ragu edges garganelli with veal-and-sage sauce, and is well ahead of a disappointing linguine with white clam sauce.

None of the desserts will get your attention. None should.

Maybe they'll add a steakhouse staple: New York-style cheesecake. Drink to that with an Italian wine.

Vittorio's Restaurant & Wine Bar, 184 Broadway, Amityville; 631-264-3333.