Vittorio's in Amityville: The Vero thing

Fans of  Vero, the currently closed Italian restaurant that was one of 2011's highlights, should go down the block to Vittorio's. Chef Massimo Fedozzi is starring in the kitchen.

Vittorio's and Vero are under the same management. Vero, closed because of a fire, is expected to reopen in late spring.

But Fedozzi's skills are on display with an excellent bucatini with pulled short-rib ragu, a hearty, husky production that will remind you of full-flavored Vero. You'll also enjoy a savory, generous main course of sauteed pork chops with pepperoncini, cipollini onions and bell peppers, finished with a red-wine vinegar sauce.

Steaks still are a big part of the appeal at Vittorio's. And the thick, juicy 32-oz. T-bone stands out. It easily could feed two.

Vittorio's, 184 Broadway, Amityville; 631-264-3333.