Wantagh: First bites at Trattachino

Trattachino, the new venture of Joseph Balbo (former chef at Babylon Carriage House) looks to be off to a rip-roaring start (emphasis on the roaring — big crowd, little sound insulation).

I easily forgave the noise level, since the food was so good. As “small" plates go, I thought the sizes here pretty generous. Highlights included crunchy tender chili-glazed calamari ($8), delectable crispy duck leg confit over parsnip puree ($6) and fragrant truffled mac and cheese ($8). An entree of beef short rib, also over parsnip puree, was ultra tender and flavorful.

Trattachino is at 753 Wantagh Ave., Wantagh, 516-735-6500

Crispy duck leg confit at Trattachino, Wantagh