April in Paris . . . Well, the way the dollar is going, maybe going French a bit closer to home.

French restaurants traditionally have been greeted by Long Island diners with the affection of the Russian winter. But there are many hardy perennials for those classic dishes. Here are three.

Sage Bistro in Bellmore has an informal and eclectic approach. Try the elemental frisee aux lardons, the tart greens with bacon; escargots in garlic-herb butter; trout meuniere; the pistachio-crusted rack of lamb; filet mignon finished in a green-peppercorn sauce; and, on Sunday, beef bourguignonne.

Sage Bistro is at 2620 Merrick Rd., Bellmore; 516-679-8928.

Bistro Cassis in Huntington is a cozy charmer with very good service and food to match. You'll enjoy the onion soup, a caramelized onion-and-goat cheese tart, mussels mariniere, roasted chicken for two, short ribs, and the Sunday blanquette de veau, or veal stew.

Bistro Cassis is at 55 Wall St., Huntington; 631-421-4122.

And East Quogue's Stone Creek Inn welcomes you with a pretty setting, plus full-flavored food that goes beyond borders for a Mediterranean accent, too. Recommended: the cheese selection, herb-crusted rack of lamb, roasted chicken with ratatouille, butter-poached lobster, pan-roasted monkfish, and the grilled pork chop with pork-pistachio-apricot sausage.

Stone Creek Inn is at 405 Montauk Hwy., East Quogue; 631-653-6770.