In mondo pizza, where extremism in defense of flavor is no vice, strange things happen. For example: the pineapple topping. Or the salad-bowl cover-up. 
 When the pristine Margherita won't do, here are three fine alternatives. 
 <a href="http://long-island.newsday.com/restaurants/anthony-s-coal-fired-pizza-1.3239155" target="_blank">Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza</a>: Thin crust, with roasted cauliflower, olive oil, garlic, mozzarella, pecorino Romano, bread crumbs. Savory and sharp. 
 <a href="http://long-island.newsday.com/restaurants/emilio-s-1.855969" target="_blank">Emilio's</a>: The Grandpa pie, a thick Sicilian crust layered with red onion, marinara sauce, mozzarella and, for some crunch, seasoned bread crumbs. A standard. 
 <a href="http://long-island.newsday.com/restaurants/satelite-pizza-1.855806" target="_blank">Satelite Pizza:</a> The stuffed vegetable pie, with broccoli, spinach, eggplant and mozzarella. You'll be ready for whatever winter has left. 
 <a href="http://www.anthonyscoalfiredpizza.com" target="_blank">Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza,</a> is at 8063 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-367-2625; and 137 Old Country Rd., Carle Place. 516-877-7750. 
 <a href="http://www.emilios-restaurant.com" target="_blank">Emilio's</a> is at 2201 Jericho Tpke., Commack; 631-462-6267. 
 <a href="http://www.satelitepizza.com">Satelite Pizza is at</a> 799 Montauk Hwy., Bayport; 631-472-3800. 
 Cauliflower-topped pizza at Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza.

In mondo pizza, where extremism in defense of flavor is no vice, strange things happen. For example: the pineapple topping. Or the salad-bowl cover-up. When the pristine Margherita won't do, here are three fine alternatives. Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza: Thin crust, with roasted cauliflower, olive oil, garlic, mozzarella, pecorino Romano, bread crumbs. Savory and sharp. Emilio's: The Grandpa pie, a thick Sicilian crust layered with red onion, marinara sauce, mozzarella and, for some crunch, seasoned bread crumbs. A standard. Satelite Pizza: The stuffed vegetable pie, with broccoli, spinach, eggplant and mozzarella. You'll be ready for whatever winter has left. Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza, is at 8063 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-367-2625; and 137 Old Country Rd., Carle Place. 516-877-7750. Emilio's is at 2201 Jericho Tpke., Commack; 631-462-6267. Satelite Pizza is at 799 Montauk Hwy., Bayport; 631-472-3800. Cauliflower-topped pizza at Anthony's Coal Fired Pizza.

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