
Westbury: Giulio Cesare still reigns

A serving of Osso buco. Credit: Danielle Finkelstein
Giulio Cesare outlasted Roosevelt Raceway and a lot of other local landmarks to become one. This traditional Italian restaurant, festooned with celebrity autographs and populated by equally well-known business and political types from the county, continues to draw a sizable crowd, even on a weekday night.
It remains a very hands-on operation, Giulio himself presiding. And the food has resisted every trend del giorno. Order mozzarella in carrozza and top it with anchovy sauce. Sample paglia e fieno, finished with peas, prosciutto and Parmesan cheese. Find a first-class steak alla pizzaiola and an ideal red snapper Livornese. Consider osso buco and halibut oreganata. Conclude with cannoli or ricotta cheesecake, spumoni or tortoni.
Long Island has plenty of time-capsule eateries. Giulio Cesare lets you know why they last. It's worth returning to this place, with its centurion imagery and decor that's untouched by the decades, for a basic reason: the food is very good.
Giulio Cesare is at 18 Ellison Ave., Westbury, off Old Country Road; 516-334-2982.
Osso buco at Giulio Cesare / Photo by Danielle Finkelstein