Woodbury: A hot new Graffiti

The wow factor was high this past weekend at the newly relocated Graffiti An American Grill, which moved into the space next door (once home to Baang) in Woodbury.

Almost an entire side of the restaurant is a window onto the bustling high-tech kitchen. The dining room, a tasteful study in rich browns, sports polished hardwood floors and wide-slatted plantation shutters. If only the noise level didn’t approach deafening.

Chef Steve Minson, who cooked at Le Bernardin and Picholine in Manhattan, has retained some old favorites and added some dishes. In addition to appetizers and "snacks" (small plates), you can make a meal of a salad, sandwich or burger ($12 to $15) or splurge on a main course. They run higher than before the move, $17 to $29.

A recent dinner began with chorizo-laced macaroni and cheese, a bubbling ramekin of orechiette with a rich crumb-topped confluence of Cheddar, provolone and ricotta. It was a major hit. And, were it not for the superfluous addition of black olives, Graffiti’s Cobb salad (greens topped with an artful arrangement of hard-boiled egg, avocado, roasted chicken breast, apple wood bacon and blue cheese) would have been ideal. Loved the individual “petite” chicken meat loaf, which was moist and herbal, drizzled with roast chicken gravy and plated with maple sweet potatoes and haricots verts.

Looking around the dining room, I observed a good number of people making a meal of salads and burgers. Given the friendly, upbeat service, I'd say this comfortable spot is geared to whatever mood your appetite is in. 

Watch for the spring opening of Asian Bistro Next Door, under the same ownership in the old  Graffiti space.

Graffiti An American Grill is at 8285 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-367-1340, graffitiamericangrill.com.