Yamaguchi in Port Washington: Tradition reigns

The only thing that changes at Yamaguchi is the calendar on the dining-room wall.

That's good.

Yamaguchi has reigned for decades in downtown Port Washington. It's a magnet for sushi devotees. Spare appointments, blond wood, brisk service and a no-nonsense approach define the veteran spot.

Try the lustrous sashimi of toro, or fatty tuna; or savor a beefy, maguro tuna roll. Enjoy the pearly fluke usuzukuri, translucent on a white plate. Sample dumplings, either steamed shrimp or fried pork. Dip into a well-made tempura udon.

You'll be back, as many have been for years.

Yamaguchi, 63 Main St., Port Washington; 516-883-3500.

Toro sashimi at Yamaguchi.