The dessert chef at Fahrenheit 555 Steakhouse prepares his "canvas"...

The dessert chef at Fahrenheit 555 Steakhouse prepares his "canvas" for the showstopping Art at Your Table dessert. Credit: TNS/Kathy Witt

EDITOR'S NOTE: Because of changing conditions surrounding COVID-19, readers are reminded to check federal, local and cruise-operator safety guidelines before planning a trip.

Absence truly does make the heart grow fonder.

I hadn’t seen my heart’s desire in 16 months — but there she stood, all 180,800 gross tons, a vision of pristine magnificence at the Port Canaveral pier. Eighteen decks high (19 counting Loft 19, the new enclave for suite guests), she gleamed beneath the Florida sun.

Carnival’s newest ship, Mardi Gras, is a party ready to celebrate the return to cruising after a protracted pause that has felt like it would never end.

As Carnival president Christine Duffy said on the Mardi Gras’ July 31 maiden voyage, "We’re back and we’re better than ever."

STRAP ON YOUR SEAT BELT

Mardi Gras’ showiest innovation? BOLT: The Ultimate Sea Coaster, a thrill ride suspended atop the ship. I slid onto BOLT’s seat and was securely buckled in, grabbed the handles and shot forward, zipping around a hairpin curve and plummeting down the track as it twisted and turned at 40 breathtaking miles an hour. Squinting one eye open, I saw the blue waters far below and decided it was best to keep both eyes firmly shut for the duration. It was exhilarating.

The first roller coaster at sea, BOLT hurtles an astonishing 187 feet above the water. Best of all, there’s no need to wait in line because guests book time slots through Carnival’s free HUB app, which can also be used to make reservations for restaurants, shows and spa services.

WELCOME NEIGHBORHOODS

BOLT is among dozens of wows on this ship, including Grand Central, a three-deck atrium with floor-to-ceiling windows on the side of the ship — another Carnival first. One of Mardi Gras’ six distinct neighborhoods, Grand Central is a gorgeous gathering space connecting guests to shows, live music, shopping, dining, one extremely popular coffee shop, JavaBlue Café, and more.

Among my favorite neighborhoods is the French Quarter. I had delicious Natchitoches meat pies and an andouille sausage po-boy at Emeril’s Bistro 1396 — the first restaurant at sea for the chef. At Fortune Teller bar, I sipped a bourbon-based Third Eye while a mystical eye stared up from the drink’s foamy top. Several evenings were spent in the softly illuminated Brass Magnolia listening to a jazz band or a mesmerizing electric violin trio.

I spent a fair amount of time in La Piazza, mainly for the crisp and chewy margherita pizza from Pizzeria del Capitano, and Lido, to grab a tall frosty drink at the two-deck, thatched-roof RedFrog Tiki Bar, and to catch a late-night movie on the humongous screen overlooking the pool.

Other neighborhoods: Summer Landing, home to Guy (Fieri)’s Pig & Anchor Smokehouse and Brewhouse and Hero Tribune Lounge with self-serve ice cream and frozen yogurt; and the Ultimate Playground. Besides BOLT, Carnival WaterWorks there is SportsSquare, including miniature golf and a ropes course with a zip line.

FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD

The steak ranchero with richly spiced rebocado gravy at Chibang!, the new Chinese and Mexican restaurant. The lobster mac 'n' cheese and red snapper at Rudi’s Seagrill. The surf and turf at Fahrenheit 555 Steakhouse. Dining aboard the Mardi Gras is a series of flavor explosions. A new mix of eateries has joined the lineup, including Street Eats and what became many cruisers’ instant fave, Big Chicken — serving up Shaquille O’Neal’s fried chicken strips and sandwiches.

From new public spaces and places to old favorites like Serenity Adults-Only Retreat, Cloud 9 Spa and the singalong Piano Bar, from the mix of complimentary and specialty dining to the off-the-charts-creative craft cocktails, from the variety of shops to the high-energy shows, there is so much to love about Mardi Gras.

I did a double take when I entered my cabin’s bathroom and found a glass shower door enclosing a larger shower space and one with a shaving bar for women. Nice touch, Carnival! It also has what I call a magic mirror — it never fogged up. I loved unpacking in the roomy wardrobe with its smooth-gliding, quiet-close drawers, shoe rack and drop-down shelves. And there were more hangers than I could use.

Excel Suite guests may do a double take when opening the door on this new category of accommodations. Some include wraparound balconies and private hot tubs in addition to access to Loft 19, a private upper-deck area with whirlpool, cushy loungers and shady cabanas to rent by the day or week. For those not living the suite life, there’s still Serenity, the no-charge, peaceful kid-free retreat with padded loungers and pools plus Fresh Creations salad station.

The Mardi Gras is the first of Carnival’s fleet — and the first cruise ship in North America — to be powered by liquefied natural gas. This more environmentally friendly innovation is considered on the forefront of marine industry fuel technology.

Longtime cruisers may recall another Carnival fleet Mardi Gras — that one hit the high seas in 1972 carrying 906 guests (the new ship carries 6,000-plus) and introducing a brand-new concept of fun and affordability to cruising. The new Mardi Gras pays its respects to the original through tributes including its Flamingo Restaurant, a sleek red Fiat, circa 1972, parked outside one of my favorite restaurants, Cucina del Capitano, and wall art outside Punchline Theatre depicting a dramatic comparison of the two ships.

PLAN YOUR TRAVELS

Mardi Gras brings numerous firsts to cruising, including the first shipboard version of "Family Feud." First in Carnival’s Excel class, Mardi Gras sails year-round from Port Canaveral on seven-day itineraries to the eastern and western Caribbean. As part of its 50th birthday festivities, Carnival Celebration, Mardi Gras' sister ship, is scheduled to debut in late 2022 from Port Miami; a third Excel-class ship will debut in 2023.

Carnival currently requires guests to wear masks indoors. Find guidelines and testing requirements for vaccinated and unvaccinated guests at carnival.com/legal/covid-19-legal-notices/covid-19-guest-protocols; carnival.com, 800-CARNIVAL.

Contact author and travel and lifestyle writer Kathy Witt at KathyWitt24@gmail.com.

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