Smaller turkeys sell first for this year's slimmed down Thanksgiving

Pared down it may be, Thanksgiving 2020 still may preserve some of the traditional holiday rhythm, as demand is keen for the star of the show, the turkey, even if it's more modest in size, Long Island farmers and shopkeepers said.

"It’s defensive downsizing," said Christina Makinajian, of the eponymous family farm in Huntington she co-owns and runs with her brother.

She and other Island suppliers said the smallest fresh birds were selling out first after officials urged people to stop the spread of COVID-19 by staying home and not hosting large celebrations.

"Definitely smaller than normal," said Nick Voulgaris, who owns Kerber’s Farm, also in Huntington, as customers appear to favor birds in the 10- to 14-pound range over ones that weigh 20 to 25 pounds. "They’re just saying, ‘I’m having a smaller group of people, my parents and children.’ "

The Mecox Bay Dairy in Bridgehampton already has sold about 250 turkeys — about two weeks earlier than usual, said Peter Ludlow. He is the son of owner Arthur Ludlow and has no official title.

This farm’s success reveals no trend is universal — and leftovers could be as popular as ever.

This season, Mecox Bay Dairy turkeys likely will be a bit larger, averaging around 20 pounds, he said, as the weather was favorable. His turkeys roam around outside after they turn a month or so old, and temperatures and rainfall both were fairly moderate, he said.

And "whether it’s a small crowd — they’re buying a bigger turkey for leftovers, and to have a full turkey dinner, and try to be thankful, as we try to get through the mess we are in," said Catherine Raleigh-Boylan, who owns and runs Raleigh’s Poultry Farm in Kings Park with her sister, Maura Raleigh-Ruggiero.

Of course, Long Island turkey sales are propelled this year by the oft-chronicled retreat of New York City dwellers to the suburbs — especially out East — where the air is fresher, communities less dense — and there are backyards plus lots more space inside if quarantined.

"There’s just more people around; I guess that’s COVID related," Ludlow said.

Like most farms, his hatchlings arrive via the U.S. Postal Service when they are about a day old; his breed grows so swiftly they are set for what some farmers call "their turn" in 16 to 18 weeks.

Many Long Island farms also offer lots of other goods, from grass-fed beef to traditional Thanksgiving side dishes to the pies that top off the feast — and many of these delights are sold year-round.

Voulgaris said people seemed drawn more than ever to the comfort of home-cooked food, a hunger he aimed to fulfill.

Raleigh-Boylan said pandemic restrictions on dining out had amplified this trend: "We did notice, too, a lot of customers are having more meals at home, Skyping with grandma, ‘How do you make chicken soup?’ " she said.

Depending on the breed, which determines all manner of features, from how fast the turkeys grow to whether the males will be too bony if slaughtered before reaching adulthood at 40 pounds or so, growers around the nation fretted that the desire for smaller birds might lead to a surplus of big birds.

That does not seem to have been a problem on Long Island, partly because of the faster growing breeds some farms selected. So they could wait until after the March COVID-19 shutdowns to order their hatchlings — and at least some foresaw novel coronavirus limits on the size of gatherings would shift the market toward smaller birds.

Knowing a bit of the history of previous pandemics, Makinajian said, led her to anticipate COVID-19 needs. So she and her brother raised fewer large turkeys. "You have to strategize so at the end of their turn, they are at the right weight."

For any turkey buyers encountering "sold out" signs at local farms, the Shenandoah Valley, Virginia’s Farmer Focus turkeys, certified humane and organic, are sold at Long Island grocery stores, said Corwin Heatwole, chief executive.

All its birds come with an ID so customers can check out the farm where they were raised.

Heatwole agreed with several Long Island growers that roaming outdoors improves the turkeys’ flavor: "After about five weeks, they have access to acres of pasture, and eat bugs and crickets, and they can forage out there." That, he said, "delivers a more tender eating experience."

With the novel coronavirus putting so many people out of work, and food banks struggling to stock shelves, Makinajian said she might be giving away more birds than usual if any larger turkeys go unsold.

"If we have extra, we have a couple of places to donate … there are always people in need."