Brutal winter a threat to LI oyster farmers

When you think of everything that makes Long Island the culturally rich, thriving place we love, our oyster industry is near the top.

Oyster farming on Long Island has been part of our economy and heritage since before Europeans settled here. Blue Point oysters were famous around the globe and the industry supported entire shoreline communities. After overharvesting and other factors all but wiped out oyster farming, government and nonprofits intervened a few decades ago to protect the waters and reseed oysters. The aquaculture industry once again thrived, accounting for $14.5 million in sales in 2022.

But this past winter threatens that success.

Oyster farmers are suffering after a brutal two-week freeze followed by a huge snowstorm at the end of February that destroyed oyster crops and equipment and put the industry and its farmers in serious financial jeopardy.

Gov. Kathy Hochul and Rep. Nick LaLota both have asked federal agencies to declare a disaster so aquaculture farmers can apply for low-interest loans to replace damaged or missing equipment and make up for lost harvests. Hochul said the winter cost the industry $2.4 million, while LaLota, who represents the East End towns, said one-third of the oyster harvest may be lost.

In a March 2 request to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, LaLota said the destruction warranted federal intervention because "… operators across the Great South Bay, Moriches Bay and the Peconic Bay system indicate widespread damage ..." In a statement to the editorial board, LaLota said NOAA is "actively reviewing" his request because "... our growers and baymen need immediate support."

Hochul said winter conditions not seen in years brought "… a halt in operations and damage to equipment that will cost the aquaculture industry millions of dollars."

Long Island's oyster industry faces challenges every year, from rising nitrogen levels in the water to storm damage. State and federal grants have pumped millions of dollars into restoration and protection efforts over the years. There are numerous initiatives to boost aquaculture through promotions and tourism. It would be shortsighted to throw this work away.

But this isn't just a nostalgic plea to preserve a piece of history. Ours is a working waterfront, with Long Islanders directly impacted. Local oyster farmers are almost entirely small and family-operated businesses. We celebrate our aquaculture heritage every summer and fall without thinking of our neighbors who work the water to provide us with oysters, from dock to dish.

The industry thrives because of collaboration, from drivers who truck oysters to market, to farmers who spend long days on rocking boats in rough weather, to restaurants that serve fresh oysters to the many customers who relish them.

Rather than collectively throwing our hands up and saying, "Aw, shucks," federal, state and local electeds must rally behind the Island's oyster industry to obtain disaster declarations and get financing quickly to our oyster farmers in need.

Then we can celebrate with a dozen oysters on the half shell.