A winning combo: Vancouver and Whistler Mountain

After skiing down Whistler Mountain's 5,280 feet of vertical fun, I glanced at the summit and wondered why this massive, snow-topped peak had been rejected as a Winter Olympics host at least three times since the 1960s.

Always a bridesmaid ... but wait.

Once Whistler teamed up with the city of Vancouver, 85 miles away, the International Olympic Committee gave the mountain and its neighboring city the nod to host the 21st Winter Olympics and Paralympics from Feb. 12 to 28.

>>Find 2010 Winter Olympics coverage

The quality of the skiing and snowboarding on Whistler, a resort that nearly every ski and snowboarding magazine in North America ranked among the world's best, is not an issue.

But you don't have to be a powder hound to delight in Whistler and Vancouver. Whether you watch the games from your couch or visit British Columbia before, during or after the Olympics, this Canadian tag team can delight foodies, joggers, tree-huggers, shopaholics, animal lovers and clean freaks, who will find the streets of Vancouver, a city of 2 million, so spotless they'll think Mr. Clean is the mayor.

GETTING AROUND VANCOUVER

No need for a rental car. Downtown Vancouver is rich in transportation options. The Canada Line links Vancouver International Airport to downtown Vancouver. And from the rail line's waterfront station, "hop on, hop off" trolleys take riders to the city's main neighborhoods and attractions (about $35 for a day pass, vancouvertrolley.com).

ATTRACTIONS

STANLEY PARK

The 1,000-acre oceanfront park has a sea wall popular with pedestrians and bicyclists. It also houses traditional totem poles (at Brockton Point on the east end) and the Vancouver Aquarium, where you'll see two young white beluga whales that seem to float like spirits across the dark blue waters ($22, vanaqua.org).

GRANVILLE ISLAND

Getting to Granville Island is half the fun. SUV-size aquabuses take visitors from the south end of Hornby Street to Granville Island, across False Creek (about $3). The display cases at its public market pop with color, like a lush rose garden. The copper of the freshly baked breads. The greens of the vegetables and fruits. The reds and silvers of the seafood. And of course, the dark browns of the coffee beans.

Also recommended: A brewery tour at Granville Island Brewing (about $9.25 including tastings, gib.ca).

GASTOWN

In Gastown, tourists flock to the historic steam clock, a street-side clock that emits toots and blasts every hour on the hour. It's somewhat charming, but not worth the trek for a scene reminiscent of watching a teapot boiling.

YALETOWN

The former warehouse district has been remade as a haven for loft-dwelling yuppies and upscale eateries, like Blue Water Cafe, Bacchus at the Wedgewood Hotel and Goldfish Pacific Kitchen. But if you want to save money and dine with the locals, check out Hon's Wun-Tun House on Robson Street, a noisy, crowded eatery where you can munch on a plate of pot stickers for about $4.

WHISTLER

GETTING THERE

To reach Whistler from Vancouver, take the Sea-to-Sky Highway, a twisting, scenic, 85-mile stretch of road that was known as the "death highway" before it was widened to accommodate Olympic traffic. It is still a harrowing drive.

Jump on one of several charter buses to enjoy views of Howe Sound, Anvil Island and the Stawamus Chief, the massive granite dome with the profile of an Indian chief. During the Olympics, the road will be closed to all except fans with tickets and residents. At Whistler, pedestrians can easily navigate the faux European village at the base of the mountain along a red brick walkway.

ATTRACTIONS

THE SLOPES

More than 100 trails and 4,757 acres of skiable terrain cover Whistler alone. Conde Nast Traveler, Outside and Skiing magazines have ranked it among the best in North America for its humongous vertical drop (second in the world, topped only by Revelstoke Mountain in British Columbia) and one of the longest ski seasons in North America. From early November to late May, the mountain receives an average of 33 feet of snow.

The recently added Peak2Peak gondola, the world's longest, connects Whistler to the adjacent Blackcomb peak, adding to your ski menu 100 or so more trails.

ZIP LINE

Take one of several zip line tours offered at the base of Whistler Mountain, and you will swoon at the views of the woods in Fitzsimmons Canyon and scream like a lunatic when you fly 60 mph over Fitzsimmons Creek, suspended by a half-inch steel cable. The first leap off a wooden platform, perched more than 1,000 feet above a surging creek, can be daunting. But the ensuing rush is worth it.

WHERE TO STAY

Vancouver

Opus Hotel: 322 Davie St., 604-642-6787, opushotel.com. Doubles from $209.

O is for opulent. This stylish boutique hotel is a favorite of celebrities and business moguls.

Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites: 1110 Howe St., 604-684-2151, holidayinn.com. Doubles from $81.

This midpriced hotel is centrally located and offers great amenities, including an indoor pool.

Best Western Château Granville: 1100 Granville St., 604-669-7070, chateaugranville.com. Doubles from $89 in the main tower.

An economy hotel with all the basics. Stay away from the courtyard building with its entrance from a scary alley.

Whistler

Pan Pacific Whistler Village Centre: 4299 Blackcomb Way, 604-966-5500, panpacific.com. Doubles from $314, including breakfast.

This luxury hotel with a year-round outdoor heated saltwater lap pool is within walking distance of the ski lifts.

Westin Resort & Spa: 4090 Whistler Way, 604-905-5000, westinwhistler.com. Doubles from $180.

Spacious, comfortable rooms less than a block from the lifts on Whistler Mountain.

Whistler Village Inn & Suites: 4429 Sundial Place, 800-663-6418, whistlervillageinnandsuites.com. Doubles from $123.

Moderately priced hotel in the heart of Whistler Village.