Barbados: Sun, rum and George Washington

George Washington slept here.

Among the hundreds of markers that make that claim, the most curious is here on Barbados, the easternmost Caribbean island, off the coast of Venezuela, which Washington visited in 1751.

He apparently enjoyed his stay, despite a bout of smallpox, writing in his diary, "In the cool of the evening we rode in the country and were perfectly enraptured with the beautiful scenery which every side presented our view. The fields of cane, corn, fruit trees in a delightful green." It took Washington, who was then 19, six weeks to sail from Virginia with his half-brother Lawrence, who was ailing with tuberculosis. Lawrence hoped the tropical air would be restorative.

It took my wife and me five hours on a direct flight from New York for our first visit here. And, unlike George and Lawrence, who came for recuperation, we - along with friends from London - came for the sun and rum.

GETTING ACCLIMATED

The future first president of the United States rode around the island on a horse; we rented a car. A tourist guide booklet noted that H-number license plates identify visiting drivers and "locals are usually accommodating of your confusion and make allowances." The island is 166 square miles (430 square kilometers), about 2 1/2 times the size of Washington, D.C., and about as difficult to get around by car, with driving on the left (Barbados was a British possession until independence in 1966) and numerous roundabouts or rotaries to negotiate.

It is a relatively flat island, with green hills rising gently inland and stunning vistas on the coasts, the Caribbean in the west, the Atlantic in the east. The scenic beauty of the island was the inspiration for the Alec Waugh novel "Island in the Sun," which was made into a movie starring James Mason in 1957 and partly filmed here.

THINGS TO DO

"Rum shops" are combination bars and general stores that often serve as gathering places for Bajans, as the locals are called. It is said that there are as many rum shops as there are churches in Barbados, and there are a lot of churches. The rum shops are the best places to sample local food and drink, watch a game of dominoes or just get to know the friendly and hospitable Bajans.

Cricket fields abound, as do chattel houses, especially on the lesser roadways. The chattel houses are small wooden homes set on blocks rather than more permanent foundations. Historically, in plantation days, the workers did not own the land their houses were set on, so they built them to be able to move the whole house quickly in case of a landlord or employer dispute.

A few now serve as stores, selling T-shirts, beachwear and gifts in Chattel Village. We lunched there, at a beach-side restaurant aptly named Beach House (thebeachhousebarbados.com), dining on fish or chicken, and rum, usually served with fruit juice as a rum punch.

BRIDGETOWN

On one rainy day, we headed for Bridgetown, the island's capital on the southwest coast, and stopped at the Waterfront Cafe (waterfrontcafe.com.bb) for a lunch of flying fish, the national fish of the island. (They don't really "fly," but they do have an Olympian leap out of the warm Caribbean waters to escape predators.) Not far from Bridgetown is the George Washington House, restored as a heritage site. Visitors can tour the Georgian house, which has period furnishings and a museum that frames Washington's experiences on the island in historical context. Admission is $10 adults (U.S. currency), $2.50 ages 5-12 (georgewashington barbados.org).

On the northern edge of the capital, the Mount Gay rum visitors' center runs 45-minute tours that trace the liquor's production (although the working distillery is in another part of the island). The rum is made from local sugar cane, still the island's biggest product for export and local consumption, although tourism and manufacturing have surpassed the sugar industry in economic importance. Tours cost $7 and include a tasting (246-425-9066) - a lunch tour often is available for $50 (including transportation to and from your hotel).

BATHSHEBA

On the rugged and less- populated east coast of the island is the strikingly beautiful fishing village of Bathsheba, with white sand beaches stretching across a coastline of erosion-shaped rock formations. A lunch at the Round House (roundhousebarbados .com) provided a wonderful view of the ocean, where surfers were out. Bathsheba is a popular spot for surfers as well as for Bajans who frequently weekend here in seaside cottages along the shore.

ELSEWHERE

We ventured into the town of Oistins for its famous Friday night fish fry along the shore. Choices included kingfish, swordfish, dorado (called dolphin fish here) or flying fish, with cou-cou (made of corn meal and okra) or macaroni pie. Dinner per person was about $8 U.S.

Of course, this is a tropical Caribbean island, so sightseeing generally took a backseat to its more alluring features - sun, surf and sand, all in abundance - and accompanying sailing, fishing, surfing and swimming.

No wonder Washington slept here.

READERS' PICKS

We asked Newsday readers to recommend places to stay and things to do in Barbados. Here are some of the suggestions:

STAY

THE CRANE

866-978-5942, thecrane.com

RATES From $268 in March and April

SUBMITTED BY Dave and Jan Szczesny, East Quogue

The Szczesny family has been traveling annually to Barbados for decades. They favor The Crane for the "quiet and private casual elegance" at this residential resort on the east coast, which offers rooms within a historic hotel or one- to three-bedroom residences.

HILTON BARBADOS

246-426-0200, hiltoncaribbean.com/barbados

RATES From $259 in March and April

SUBMITTED BY Kenneth and Caroline Gerasimovich, Garden City

The Gerasimoviches have twice stayed with their three young daughters at the Hilton, which they favor for its size, pools, calm beach and central location. Its Kids Club program is free and includes activities such as pajama movie nights.

DO

EL TIGRE CATAMARAN SAILING CRUISE

246-417-7245, eltigrecruises.com

COST $88

SUBMITTED BY Ed and Barbara Comens, Lindenhurst

The Comens family visited Barbados in October to celebrate their 25th anniversary (they honeymooned on the island). Options for catamaran cruises abound. They favored El Tigre for its attentive staff, good food and lack of crowds from cruise ships. The five-hour lunch cruise includes stops for snorkeling (gear provided), drinks and buffet lunch.

BARBADOS WILDLIFE RESERVE

246-422-8826

ADMISSION $12

SUBMITTED BY Kelly Nixon, East Patchogue

Animals run amok in the natural habitats of this reserve - including captive green monkeys, which, Nixon says, took peanuts and corn right from her hands. The reserve also houses turtles, peacocks and parrots.

EAT

THE CLIFF

246-432-1922, thecliffbarbados.com

SUBMITTED BY Anna DiSanti, Bethpage

DiSanti considers a meal at The Cliff an "absolute must-do" - although it's expensive. She says she's never seen a restaurant as beautiful and the food was "wonderful." Reservations a must well in advance.