Cabo San Lucas: Mexico's quiet paradise
Palmilla Chapel in Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur, Mexico, sits high on a hill overlooking the ocean, surrounded by tropical palms and vibrant bougainvillea. (undated) Credit: LCCVB
While the rest of Mexico is in turmoil, the good times keep rollin' at Cabo San Lucas.
Landing at the tourist destination at the very southern tip of Baja California, it seems like you're in a parallel world. Here's an Applebee's, a downtown mall, a Home Depot and pristine beaches as far as you can see.
With only 4 percent unemployment, Cabo is safe compared to much of the rest of the country, which has been beset by rival drug cartels' turf wars and other violence. Tourists flock to glitzy resorts and fill the chic outdoor patios at many restaurants.
And there are myriad recreational activities, from snorkeling with dolphins to reeling in a marlin to zip-lining over the foamy waves of the Sea of Cortez.
NIGHTLIFE
Cabo is famous for its party times. And you can party until you drop from exhaustion. The "in" places to go include the Pink Kitty, Mandala, Baja Jonkie, Cabo Wabo (owned by rocker Sammy Hagar), Passion Club at the ME Cabo hotel on Medano Beach, the Office, known for its daytime beach parties, and Squid Roe.
Most of these clubs have no cover charge. The places start rocking around 11 p.m.
SPORTS
There are dozens of great golf courses (not for beginners) that stretch along the emerald coastline. One of the favorites is Palmilla at the Palmilla Resort, 25 minutes from Cabo (greens fees from $130, 800-637-2226, palmillagc.com).
Sportfishing is also a major draw -- Cabo's marina is lined with a surprisingly vast fleet of yachts and charter fishing boats that take anglers on runs for marlin, tuna and dorado.
Several outfitters run sea kayaking tours from Medano Beach that take you to the secluded (and postcard-perfect) Lover's Beach -- but, naturally, you won't have it all to yourself.
A trip to the famed rocky formations is recommended, particularly to the distinctive El Arco landmark that marks the spot where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean. Accessible by water taxi or small boats, the bay side is fine for swimming, but the water is too rough to negotiate on the Pacific side.
DINING
As expected, there's great Mexican food here, especially seafood; the fish served at local restaurants is superb. For Mexican fare, try the medium-priced La Fonda. For fine dining, there's La Frida at the Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach Resort, and a local favorite is Mariscos Mazatlan for an inexpensive evening out.
SIDE TRIPS
There are unexplored areas to visit outside Cabo. Highlights could be a jaunt to the quaint town of Todos Santos, about 45 miles from Cabo and the location of the Eagles' song "Hotel California." Or, even better, take a backcountry trip down rough river beds and dirt roads that are frequented by burros, cows, goats, snakes, iguanas, pigs and exotic birds like the peregrine, Mexican hawk and eagle.
One such trail -- the old road to La Paz -- passes the tiny village of La Calenderia, the home of 75 people who enjoy electricity only twice a day -- two hours in the morning and two hours at night. The neighborhood was offered a full-time connection but refused, reportedly arguing that it would seduce the children into watching television all day.
In this town sits an immaculate little church, profuse plumeria trees and friendly residents.
If you take one of these side trips, you'll need a sturdy crossover utility vehicle to make it through the sand traps and Mars-like terrain.
A less-rugged trek is the trip north on Highway 1 to Buena Vista, where the sea views are beautiful and the beaches are vacant. This road (which serves the airport) is a toll road, 28 pesos a car (about $2.25) and along this route you'll cross over the Tropic of Cancer.
READERS' TIPS
Top recommendations from Newsday readers who have recently traveled to Cabo San Lucas:
DINING
Puerta Vieja
puertavieja.com
SUBMITTED BY Sandra Viola, East Williston
This moderately priced restaurant has an outstanding view at sunset (great for pictures, Viola says) and good seafood. Try the carrot cake for dessert.
El Restaurante at the Esperanza Hotel
SUBMITTED BY Gary and Donna Shinn, Oceanside
As a special treat, the Shinns enjoyed a sunset dinner at
El Restaurante, which is carved into rock that overlooks the Seaof Cortez. Reservations suggested.
ALSO TRY After a Mexican meal in town, the Shinns headed to Señor Sweets (senorsweets.com) for dessert; miniature cakes and other pastries are made to order there. The wait, Gary writes, is "worth every minute."
STAY
Sheraton Hacienda del Mar
RATES From $169
SUBMITTED BY Barbara Knoeller, Melville
Knoeller enjoyed the resort's many amenities and restaurants. Particularly memorable: a super-sweet lobster dinner on the moonlit beach at the resort's Del Cortez restaurant. In town, the family took a water-taxi ride to the tip of the Baja peninsula where they saw the arched stone, seals lounging on the rocks and surfers taking to the waves.
Fiesta Americana Grand
RATES From $205
SUBMITTED BY Gloria Luchsinger, Farmingville
The resort has "out of this world" pools that Luchsinger says make you feel as if you're touching the ocean. Her favorite restaurant was the on-site Viña del Mar, which hosted a weekly Mexican buffet on Tuesdays featuring dancers and musicians.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE
Cabo is reachable from New York City airports via connecting service. Round-trip fares between March and June start at about $300. Cabo is also a regular port of call on Mexican Riviera cruises.
TRANSPORTATION
Many hotels will arrange transfers to and from the airport, which is about 30 miles from Cabo San Lucas. A handful of rental car agencies operate at the airport. Taxi service is readily available between hotels and attractions in Cabo San Lucas.
CURRENCY
Most resorts, restaurants and tour operators accept credit and debit cards. U.S. dollars are accepted at many (but not all) places; the conversion rate is about 12 pesos to the dollar.
WHERE TO STAY
Resorts cluster along the coastline, the closer to the southern tip of Baja (known as Land's End) the better. For top service and accommodations, try the ME Cabo, right on the sea with a fabulous view of El Arco (from $190, me-cabo.com). The Westin Resort & Spa has a private beach and seven pools (from $165, starwoodhotels.com).
