Costa Rica vacations: Natural wonders and creature comforts

In Costa Rica, nature is always near and often in your face.

That’s what I discovered upon arrival at Nayara Springs, a romantic boutique hotel in the rain forest near Arenal, the third most active volcano in the world. “There he is,” said my guide, Juan José, pointing to the young sloth hanging from a tree near the entrance to the resort. It was one of many close encounters with the wild during my visit to this Central American nation, favored by ecotourists for its well-protected landscapes and host of outdoor adventures.

The two luxury resorts where I’ll stay, Nayara Springs and the Four Seasons Costa Rica, offer gateways to Costa Rica’s natural wonders — along with the creature comforts of spa treatments and fine dining.

Nayara Springs is the younger sister of the Nayara Hotel, Spa and Gardens, separated by a 250-foot pedestrian bridge over the jungle. Nayara Springs is strictly adults only, and comprises 16 villas each nestled in a garden of tropical delights. Relaxing in my private plunge pool fed by mineral hot springs, I’m surrounded by a riot of giant red stalk palms, birds of paradise and pink ginger plants.

The villa itself is vast (1,500 square feet), with a king-size four-poster bed, indoor and outdoor rain showers, and a second garden anchored by a floor of azure stones and open to the sheltering sky.

Just in case that sky confirms that you are indeed in a rain forest, a clutch of bright orange umbrellas stands sentinel at the recessed front door. Yes, it rains but it is a warm, caressing kind of rain that doesn’t deter me from swimming long lengths in the hot springs pool bracketed by covered lounges on one side and the indoor/outdoor restaurant, Amor Loco, on the other.

For the truly adventurous at heart, Nayara Springs offers a plethora of off-site tours, including the popular Mystic Hanging Bridges, Lava Fields Walk, Bird Watching Around the Volcano — the list goes on. But other than one most enjoyable trip to Danaus, an ecological reserve, where I hold butterflies in my hand, watch a wily caiman and see two- and three-toed sloths high in the trees (with binoculars), I am quite content for my three days and nights to take full advantage of what this boutique resort offers.

No surprise then that I book the signature Costa Rican coffee scrub at the spa, followed by the Volcanic Mud Massage. The setting of the spa is dramatic. It is completely open on one side to the sights, sounds and smells of the rain forest — no need for mood music, or incense.

Nineteen more villas are currently being constructed and a tented camp of 24 luxurious tents, safari-style, is in the planning stages.

Leaving Nayara Springs, I take a three-hour winding road trip through various microclimates that ends with a striking view of the Four Seasons Resort on the Papagayo Peninsula, its 182 guest rooms spread along the isthmus overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

As I’m being escorted to my room, I notice the unusual shape of the spacious reception — the roof mimicking the wings of a butterfly. The suites resemble luxurious tree houses, incorporating the indoors and outdoors.

I unpack, don my bathing suit and off I go. Presented with three swimming pools, one ocean and one protected bay to choose from, I opt for the ocean and plunge in. After a quick change, I begin to explore: the thatched-roof artisan market with local handmade crafts; the bay side (Playa Blanca) bouncing with kayaks and canoes, sailboats and motor boats and a small hut offering snorkeling equipment.

Near the Sol y Sombra restaurant (where a $43 buffet breakfast is served) stands a huge blackboard chalked with events of the day, mostly complimentary. I count 20 options including Boot Camp, Mini-Golf, Tennis Strategy, Ice Cream Time (for sure) and Moonlight Stand Up Paddleboarding (maybe). I book the Mangrove Adventure Tour and then the cooking class. To get to the mangrove area, we drive past the 18-hole Arnold Palmer-designed golf course and walk into the cool forest of old growth trees.

Two secluded and pristine beaches beckon as we approach the mangrove area. Sadly, because of a drought, the mangroves are underwhelming, but the journey is invigorating and works up an appetite for my cooking class. Not being a great cook myself, I am impressed by the organizational skills and ease with which Justo Perez, charismatic sous-chef, prepares, from scratch, a tortilla soup for our small group of seven.

The next morning, the screech of a howler monkey awakens me at 5:30 a.m. I grab my binoculars and run to the screened-in terrace. In the dim light, I manage to identify a large hairy mass on a branch level to my third-story suite. As the light slowly illuminates the sky, the monkey leaps to another branch closer to me. Thrilling.

Later, I arrive at the airy three-story spa for the signature bamboo massage and anti-aging (I hope) facial. Before my treatment I “take the waters.” An outdoor balcony houses a long trough of bubbling hot water, next to a freezing cold plunge pool. While steaming in the former, a huge gray tiger heron alights to groom himself — no doubt a spa veteran.