Houseboating getaways, at home or abroad
I never expected washing dishes to be a highlight on my European vacation. But for three mornings in a row in Amsterdam, I woke up early and darted to the kitchen. From the bow of our houseboat, I could bask in the sun through huge windows, clean up from the night before and watch as tour boats navigated our canal. Tourists smiled and waved at me, and I smugly did the same.
"Ha, they think I'm a native. Suckers!" I'd think.
And for those few days, I was. This was the type of experience I craved for my recent trip to Europe. I'd been several times before and wanted to experience life there beyond the sights. I wanted authenticity: to go to markets, prepare food, relax on a deck and soak it all in. So hotels were out. After a bit of searching and planning, my boyfriend and I rented a houseboat in Amsterdam's artsy, upscale Jordaan.
Here's how we did it.
Before you go
KNOW WHAT YOU WANT
Thinking about the experience you want will steer you as you browse through what could be hundreds of listings. You'll need to decide how much of the vacation you want to spend motoring around versus relaxing in one spot. When it comes to selecting a houseboat, the size and amenities onboard will significantly affect the price. Do you want merely the basic space to store your stuff and sleep -- or do you see spending time in the vessel as part of your vacation? If so, you'll want to look for one with a decent-size kitchen, and maybe a deck or balcony. We knew we wanted a houseboat with a deck in Amsterdam since canal life is such a part of the culture.
KNOW WHERE TO LOOK
Start searching online well in advance. There are hundreds of listing sites, many of them focusing on specific cities or countries. So hunt around for options specific to your destination. We used the Amsterdam-only listing service apartments-unlimited.com for our houseboat, and also looked at amsterdam.citymundo.com. We decided to go with only vetted websites, where listings put up by people who own these properties as second homes or investments are approved and maintained, rather than a site where anyone can put up anything.
Book fast if you're traveling during peak seasons, such as the spring and early summer.
RESEARCH ITINERARIES
Since you're likely not familiar with the destination, go through guides and websites to figure out some activities and places you'd like to visit. Map it out and see how convenient it will be to get around. If you're houseboating in a city like Amsterdam or Paris, how much will you value being able to go back for a quick shower or to drop off souvenirs? Staying in hotels, which are located centrally in many cities, may make this easier than getting to and from the waterfront.
WEIGH THE COSTS
Houseboat stays can cost more than hotels, so don't think of this as a way to save money -- unless you spread the cost among several people. Our three nights on a houseboat came to nearly $640 (450 euros), more than we'd typically spend on hotels. But we valued the experience and factored that in. Because we had a kitchen, we were able to buy groceries and produce at local markets and save money on eating out.
ASK QUESTIONS
You should be able to contact the owners or managers directly from listings. Ask what public transportation stops are near to where the boat is moored. How would they describe the neighborhood? Don't be afraid to ask for exceptions to stated rules. Many places require a minimum number of nights, but may waive the requirement when asked.
When you're there
THE CHECK-IN
Because there's no hotel staff waiting for you, the manager or owner will arrange a meeting time beforehand. But delays or simply getting lost en route may make you late, so have his or her number handy. Upon arrival, you'll be briefed on the basic do's and don'ts of operating the vessel -- ask for tried-and-true suggestions of where to go and what to do in the neighborhood where your houseboat is moored.
GET ACCLIMATED
Don't be too quick to rush off to explore the sites. Take a moment to look for signs listing concerts, attractions and events. See what the locals are doing. If you'll be roving on the water, you'll want to have a plan for where you can tie up to refuel, shop for groceries and moor overnight.
Houseboats in the states
Floating on a houseboat is a novel way to spend a vacation. Although it sounds intimidating, anyone with a valid driver's license who is at least 18 years old can operate the vessel. Rentals typically include a brief instruction/demo of the controls and navigation system -- owners usually supply maps and itinerary suggestions.
LAKE MEAD, NEVADA
Just outside Las Vegas, Lake Mead could be a refreshing way to wind down a Sin City vacation. The water is smooth and there are more than 500 miles of shoreline to explore.
What it costs Callville Bay Resort & Marina rents houseboats 50 to 70 feet long for two or more nights from $528 a night.
Info 800-255-5561, callvillebay.com
LAKE POWELL
Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Arizona/Utah
A two-hour drive from the Grand Canyon, the 186-mile-long lake is surrounded by desert rock and eerie sandstone walls. Houseboaters motor up and down the shores, tying up at secluded beaches or hiking on land.
What it costs Budget 46-foot vessels with a bathroom and shower that can sleep at least six range from $2,037 to $4,995 for a seven-day rental. Luxury houseboats with multiple bedrooms, a hot tub and satellite television start at $7,595.
Info 888-896-3829, lakepowell.com
FINGER LAKES REGION
The calm waterways that run through the Erie Canal and New York's Finger Lakes region are lined with small historic villages that invite houseboaters to tie up and wander through town for a meal or shopping. The season runs May-October.
What it costs Erie Canal Cruise Lines offers weeklong houseboat charters priced from $2,695 for four passengers. Vessels are heated (or air-conditioned), with bathrooms and kitchenettes.
Info 800-962-1771, canalcruises.com
FLORIDA KEYS
Navigate the small islands of the Florida Keys on calm bay waters, where you can drop anchor for swimming, fishing or sunning -- or hop from marina to marina.
What it costs Islamorada-based Houseboat Vacations of the Florida Keys rents houseboats that sleep six to 10 passengers. Vessels have kitchens, bathrooms and upper sun decks; rates begin at $1,950 for a week, with 3-day rentals available from $1,112.
Info 305-664-4009, floridakeys.com/houseboats
