Parent- and kid-tested sights in Italy

There is no shortage of breathtaking art and architecture in Italy. In fact, the biggest challenge one might face when traveling as a family is to whittle down the number of churches, historical sites and museums you visit. Because, let's face it, anyone between the ages of, well, birth and death, can see only so many churches in one week.

I am not suggesting you skip the Sistine Chapel or forgo the Colosseum, but you can give your trip added flourish with some of these lesser-known spots. All are parent- and teen-tested and approved, and most (with the exception of the crypt) should be as appealing to grade-school children as they are to grandparents.

1. STAY IN A TUSCAN WINERY (even if you don't drink wine)

From Fattoria Viticcio's location in Greve in Chianti, it is possible to visit much of the Tuscan countryside - including Volterra and Siena - as comfortable day trips. And speaking of comfort - for family travel, nothing beats the ease of staying in the warm, homey two-bedroom apartment on this property. Start your day by throwing open the shutters on your bedroom window and breathing in the sights, sounds and smells of the surrounding vineyard hills. Then make breakfast in the full kitchen with goods procured in town. Best of all may be the owners: the charming Alessandro and Nicoletta Landini (and their daughters), whose home just happened to produce two of the Wine Spectator Top 100 wines for 2009.

INFO: About $965-$1,040 a week for two people, $1,150-$1,470 for up to six, fattoriaviticcio.com.

2. CLIMB A MEDIEVAL TOWER

To some, climbing the approximately 500 narrow, winding steps of Siena's Torre del Mangia would be lunacy. But what is a claustrophobic, heart-pounding experience to some is exhilarating to others, thanks to the unforgettable view across Siena and the surrounding countryside. Families torn by differing perspectives needn't worry. Mellower members can wait in one of Italy's most beautiful and celebrated squares, Piazza del Campo, and watch as toddlers chase birds, young lovers kiss and locals gossip over lunch.

INFO: Admission is about $8.50. The tower is open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. (it closes at 4 p.m. during winter); only 30 people are allowed in at once.

3. BECOME A LUNATIC

You may think braving the rickety gondola up the steep slope to arrive in the village of Gubbio is lunacy enough, but, according to legend, you can do better - and even earn a "certificate of madness." Just run around the Fontana dei Pazzi (Fountain of Lunatics) three times, preferably while being splashed with water. Why legend has it that this will make you crazy is anyone's guess - but trying to become mad by running around a fountain takes a certain level of insanity to begin with. The fountain is in the Palazzo del Bargello, where you'll find the city's medieval police station and prison.

INFO: easygubbio.it

4. TAKE A PRIVATE UFFIZI TOUR

Florence's mind-boggling Uffizi, one of the world's great museums, can be overwhelming to wander through on your own, but the artwork comes alive under the knowledgeable guidance of Alessandra Machetti. It is a sizable splurge to hire a private guide (about $250-$270 for a half-day; $490-$551 full day), but we found it worth every euro. Marchetti brought the life and times, as well as the masterpieces, alive for multi-generation family members - including sullen teens. Hired for a full or half-day, Marchetti reserves the tickets to ensure you'll avoid the spirit-dampening waits (it can take up to three hours during peak summer months if you don't get them in advance.).

INFO: E-mail aleoberm@tin.it

5. GO UNDERGROUND

Narni is an unspoiled town in the Umbria region, about 40 miles from Rome. High on the hill, you'll see the impressive 13th century fort used to guard this once-important village. But better still, head down - deep down - into the Narni Sotterranea, a subterranean "second" village beneath the first, where you can explore prison cells and a torture chamber used during the Inquisition (and, yes, another chapel). If you're lucky, you will be shown around by Roberto Nini, the resident who, more than 30 years ago, discovered the buried village. There is (largely unfounded but fun) speculation that the town of Narni may have helped inspire C.S. Lewis' "Chronicles of Narnia" (about $6, narnisotterranea.it).

For a far creepier underground adventure, visit the fascinating and eerily pretty Capuchin Crypt in Rome, where the bones of deceased friars dating back as far as the 1600s are arranged in decorative patterns on the walls and ceiling of this underground cemetery. The crypt is divided into five chapels, including Crypt of the Skulls, Crypt of the Pelvises, and Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones. Capuchin Friars consider the decorative use of the bones a "hymn to life"; the friary here is still staffed by brown-robed friars (admission by donation, cappucciniviaveneto.it).

6. CULTIVATE YOUR INNER GELATO CONNOISSEUR

In Florence, make it a point to taste and compare gelato from as many shops as you can. At least once a day (we think twice is better), stop at one of the hundreds of gelaterie for which the city is so well known. (Don't worry, you'll walk it off.) You are more likely to find the best gelato away from the major tourist attractions: Look for signs that say "nostra produzione" or "produzione propria," meaning it is made on the premises. Avoid brightly colored concoctions flavored by chemicals rather than natural ingredients. Two longtime favorite gelaterie: Vivoli, Via Isole delle Stinche 7r (near Piazza Santa Croce) and Festival del Gelato, Via del Corso 75r.

7. MAKE A 'TWILIGHT' FAN PILGRIMAGE

The Tuscan village of Volterra, 45 minutes from Florence, is where key parts of "Twilight Saga: New Moon" took place. The tourist office of this windswept hilltop village supplies fans with a map of the key sights. Wander through the narrow, mysterious alleyways, and you may find yourself overlooking some of the best-preserved Roman baths in Italy.

INFO: volterratur.it

Food adventures

IN ROME: L'Orso '80

Via dell'Orso 33 (near Piazza Navona)

Ideal for relaxing family dining. While you can order from the menu, even more fun is to order the antipasto misto della casa, which means waiters bring you dish after dish (about $18.50 a person). You don't know what you'll get, but don't worry - if you don't like one dish, the next is sure to please. It's a dining adventure that works for even finicky eaters, and at a good price.

IN GREVE, CHIANTI: Enoteca Fuori Piazza

Via I Maggio 2, Piazza Trento

Just off the main square, tuck into this charming eatery with a half-dozen tables surrounding a gleaming wood serving bar. You'll find dishes made from the superb local ingredients, walls lined with spectacular wines, and locals (some with their pups) who are as welcoming as the staff.

IN POGGIO: La Capannina

Via Chiantiana 52, San Donato in Poggio

As you make your way along the winding road between Siena and Greve, look for a small orange sign on the left. La Capannina can be a true adventure: You may need to order with sign language and pointing, but the hostess (and wife of the chef) will work hard to ensure you love what you get. Seafood abounds here, but meat-eaters will be thrilled by the local pork and chianna beef. Fall in love with the food or fall in love with the place: Either way, it's an adventure you'll relish for years to come.