Round-the-clock fun in Aruba

Bon Bini, which means welcome, is thrown around freely in Aruba, the "A" in the ABC island chain that includes Bonaire and Curaçao and forms the Caribbean's Leeward Antilles. A 21-mile-long sliver of sand just north of Venezuela, Aruba is renowned for its expansive white beaches and steady dose of sunshine. The dry climate, unlike that on most tropical islands, has cemented Aruba's reputation as the ideal vacation destination for the Caribbean traveler.

Aruba's first inhabitants hailed from neighboring Venezuela, but in 1636 Aruba joined the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Though its direct influence is Dutch, the island's 100,000-plus population speaks Papiamento, a hybrid of Dutch, English, French, Spanish and Portuguese that celebrates the many cultures of the island. Such multiculturalism has helped Aruba evolve into something of a foodie wonderland, with scores of innovative restaurants and international chefs on the scene. Aruba is also carving an artistic place for itself - this summer marked Aruba's first film festival featuring such talent as Richard Gere and Patricia Clarkson (arubafilmfest.com).

WHAT TO EXPECT

Aruba is heavily dependent on tourism for revenue - the island is rife with resorts, restaurants and high-end retail shops that cater to visitors. On many Caribbean islands, seclusion and relaxation are prized, but on Aruba, it's the buzzing atmosphere that is the lure. Fine dining, gambling, water sports and carousing are practically mandatory here.

Fortunately, this enthusiasm also carries over to native Arubans, who tend to be an open-armed group. The colorful homes that dot Aruba's interior mirror the vibrant personalities of its people. The island's liveliness peaks during the annual winter carnival, a celebration marked by spectacular parades and street festivals January-March. People, food, culture and natural beauty - these are the characteristics that set the tone on this "happy island."

ON THE BEACH

Secluded beaches, historic beaches, kid-friendly beaches, bustling beaches - Aruba has them all. Clustered around the western and southern coasts of the island, a year-round temperature averaging 82 degrees assures that Palm, Eagle, Druif and Coco beaches remain busy. Scanning the shoreline, vacationers sport a rainbow of inner tubes and rafts to keep afloat in the translucent sea - even in the off-season.

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If you're the underwater type, you're in luck; Aruba has some of the best scuba diving around. It's home to the Caribbean's largest wreck, the 400-foot Antilla, a German U-boat sunk during World War II, and downed airplanes such as the Sonesta mingle with stingrays, moray eels, turtles and barracudas, while the Jane Sea, a 250-foot cement freighter, shimmers in eerie phosphorescence.

LOW END Beach huts manned by fit Aruban boys advertise banana boating and water skiing. The horizon is dotted with kite surfers and parasailing silhouettes. Jet Skis create a ripple effect in the otherwise tranquil waters, which are also traversed by yachts and speedboats. Activity fees vary per kiosk, but Jet Ski rentals usually begin at about $60 a person for 30 minutes and parasailing starts at $55 for 10- to 15-minute rides.

HIGH END Two-tank scuba dives with Red Sail Sports cost $79 (plus $30 equipment rental). Prefer a private expedition? Charter a catamaran for a sailing trip that includes snorkeling and lunch. Red Sail's rates begin at $850 an hour (redsailsports.com).

TEE OFF

With such low humidity, the island's two golf courses enjoy much early-morning activity.

LOW END The nine-hole course at The Links at Divi Aruba isn't terribly atmospheric, but tee times begin at $75 and club rentals cost $25 (divigolf.com).

HIGH END More luxurious is the Robert Trent Jones II-designed 18-hole golf course at Tierra del Sol, where every turn of the head offers a stunning seascape and the terra-cotta country club is overlooked by Aruba's northernmost point: The California Lighthouse. ($112 for 18 holes, $55 for club rental; tierradelsol.com)

DINING

Eating is a popular pastime in Aruba, and the flavors run from classic to creative to authentic Caribbean. Some restaurants are housed in rustic, off-the-grid country homes, while others can be found in Aruba's bustling Oranjestad center.

LOW END Salt & Pepper is decorated with hundreds of salt and pepper shakers. Overlook the kitsch and you'll start your day with monstrous platters of eggs that come in at half the cost of the hotel breakfast buffets (saltandpepperaruba.com).

The Netherlands are known for pancakes - light, airy crepes the size of a New York pizza. The Dutch Pancake House, on L.G. Smith Boulevard, serves an array of confections ($10 each), but it's the kid-pleasing, sugary poffertjes, the equivalent of our silver dollars that keeps the lines long.

Since Aruba's midday heat can be scorching, cheap, waterfront eateries line the shoreline. For finger-lickin' good chicken wings and drink specials at any time of day, hit Moomba (moombabeach.com). More upscale? The Palms at the Hyatt Regency serves blackened fish soft tacos ($14) and skirt steak salad ($14.50) in a whitewashed, air-conditioned room (aruba.hyatt.com).

Madame Janette is a favorite - a casual, open-air spot with extensive Aruban specials. Portions are huge, so ordering appetizers such as the delicious bang bang lobster or seviche lettuce tacos can easily halve a pricey tab into budget territory (madamejanette.com).

HIGH END The Screaming Eagle's sweeping dining room, partitioned by breezy fabric and low-lit by chandeliers, delivers on ambience while the seafood-heavy menu delivers on taste. At $100 a person with a bottle of wine, Screaming Eagle is a pricey but worthwhile culinary indulgence (screaming-eagle.net).

For romance, The Old Man and the Sea, located on Savaneta's moonlit shores, takes top honors. The restaurant's setting is magnificent - surf laps at your toes and lantern light flickers on tables. Book the floating living room for the ultimate experience, and then go ahead and order the lobster ($80 a person including drinks, theoldmanandthesearestaurant.com).

CASINOS

For some, Aruba's casinos offer nightly diversion. Whether your game is blackjack, Texas hold 'em or roulette, the nicest hotels have the most popular casinos.

With more than 500 slots and 28 gaming tables, the Marriott Stellaris Casino is the largest of the island's venues. Here, a steady din of hoots and hollers accompanies the flashing lights atop rows of slot machines (stellariscasino.com).

Closer to Eagle Beach is the smaller Alhambra Casino, where vacationers can be found stacking piles of rainbow chips into neat reminders of their good fortune. Penny slots abound; minimum bets for poker and blackjack begin at $5 and soar as high as $2,000 (casinoalhambra.com).

SHOPPING

LOW END For reasonably priced tropical attire, try the Juggling Fish near the Playa Linda Resort. For souvenirs, the weekend flea market on L.G. Smith Boulevard next to the Certified Mall is your best bet.

Last, drop by the new Palm Beach Plaza (palmbeachplaza.com), a bi-level mall home to a bowling alley and a branch of Long Island's own Shoe Box (theshoebox.com).

HIGH END Coveting a new watch? Pining for the latest Gucci handbag? You're on the right island - Aruba is full of luxury boutiques. Gandelman discounts labels such as Rolex, Cartier and Lladro (gandelman.net). The Renaissance Mall in Oranjestad includes Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein at prices slightly lower than the States (shoprenaissancearuba.com).

WHERE TO STAY

Broken up into high-rise and low-rise hotel zones, Aruba offers varying levels of affordability. The high-rise hotels are clustered around Palm Beach and tend to be newer properties, while deals abound at the low-rise establishments on the more expansive Eagle Beach.

LOW END Divi Aruba Phoenix Beach Resort is a high-rise that's part of the larger Divi Resort Group, which owns eight Eagle Beach properties. Children younger than 12 stay free and one-bedroom suites begin at $179 a night for mid-November (diviresorts.com).

On Palm Beach, the Westin feels like a boutique hotel, regardless of its 400-plus rooms. With competitive pricing, sleek design and a hotel casino within, the Westin offers the best value starting at $169 a night (westin.com).

HIGH END The Hyatt Regency is a luxury hotel with 357 renovated rooms, six restaurants and details such as LCD TVs and iPod docks. Rate plans vary, beginning at $259 a night (aruba.hyatt.com).

Similar in price ($279 a night), the Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino feels more crowded since timeshare properties share its facilities (marriott.com). Rooms in the Tradewinds Club, a private hotel on the top floor, begin at $504.

For more lavish digs, you'll have to wait until 2012, when the Ritz-Carlton opens.

IF YOU GO

BY AIR Aruba is a 4 1/2-hour flight from New York. American, Continental, Delta, JetBlue and United offer nonstop service to Reina Beatrix International Airport. Economy round-trip rates for November and December weekend travel start around $400, plus tax.

GETTING AROUND Taxi service from the airport to the high-rise hotel zone runs about $25. Palm Beach and Eagle Beach are navigable by foot, and taxis to outlying areas such as Savaneta are cheap and easy to find. If you must have a car, rentals can be arranged at the airport for $40 to $60 a day. At most hotels, parking is free.