Soaking up quality hours in a Santa Fe spa

When I told friends that I was about to spend a few days in Santa Fe, N.M., three of them - separately and without prompting - told me about a stop that I simply had to make. You know, a "must-see." Not the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum or a side trip to Taos, though those were on the list.

"I hope you have time to get to Ten Thousand Waves," one began.

"Favorite spa in the country," e-mailed another. "Pay extra for a master massage. Totally worth it."

AT THE SPA

I was pretty sure that I'd like Ten Thousand Waves after visiting the website and seeing its commitment to the Japanese philosophy and practice of communal baths. The main difference is that this spa, which opened in 1981, has added a raft of spa treatments to the natural-wood-and-trickling-water-along-stone-paths scene.

I'd signed up for an admittedly indulgent 41 / 2-hour package dubbed Waves of Bliss ($369), and my only remaining worry was that I might get a little bored spending a whole hour in a private bath. (The communal bath would come later.)

I didn't. As soon as I showered and changed into my kimono, I shuffled in my sandals up a little winding path to find the tub. The scene that awaited looked so peaceful: an open-air wooden tub big enough for six, enclosed by a bamboo slat fence, with steam curling up invitingly. When I slipped in, the tiniest bubbles streamed up from the bottom and clung to my skin, buoying me slightly, as if I were bathing in Champagne.

The hour flew.

The facial was more than a facial; it started with a head and neck treatment that involved the therapist pouring hot oil on my forehead and temples, then massaging it into my scalp. By the time the actual facial-facial started, I was practically asleep.

Solar, an affable guy with big hands (just what you want in a massage therapist), was a master, too. When I got up from the table, every nerve ending was tingling (were those hot-tub bubbles still on my skin?).

COMMUNAL BATH

Before my last treatment, I'd have a chance to experience the communal baths, the centerpiece of Ten Thousand Waves. Up another little stairway was the big clothing-optional tub, where a handful of men had opted against and a couple of couples had opted in favor. I quickly dropped my kimono and got in. By this point, the sun was setting, and I knew my half-hour wouldn't be enough, that I'd return after my salt-glow scrub for more soaking time.

My 4 1/2 hours turned to six, but I couldn't delay the inevitable any longer. The place had to close, after all. Next time, I won't just drop by this spa; I'll plan ahead and stay in one of those ryokan-style rooms, making it a destination unto itself.

IF YOU GO

TEN THOUSAND WAVES

3451 Hyde Park Rd., Santa Fe, N.M., 505-982-9304, tenthousandwaves.com

COST $18.80 for unlimited soaking in the communal or women's bath. Private baths from $29 an hour. Massages from $99 for 55 minutes. Facials from $109.

STAY Rooms from $99 single or double occupancy in low season (Nov. 1 to April 30), $139 in high season (May 1 to Oct. 31). Larger rooms from $199 to $239.