Texas two-step: Austin and Fredericksburg
A guitar picker performs at the Luckenbach in the town of Fredericksburg, halfway between Austin and San Antonio, Texas, in the Texas Hill Country. (undated) Credit: Al Rendon Photo/
Texas may be famous for its cowboys, rodeos and oil, but Austin and Fredericksburg, situated in the state's central region known as the Texas Hill Country, call to mind a different state - of mind, anyway. Austin, the state capital, is known for its live music and left-of-center style. And Fredericksburg, just 80 miles west of Austin, is an old German hamlet with plenty of small-town charm mixed with modern-day sophistication. Fantastic food, superb shopping, hopping nightlife and a wide variety of outdoor activities beckon visitors to central Texas in autumn, or any time of year.
GETTING THERE
Flights to Austin arrive at Austin-Bergstrom International Airport. Most major car rental firms have rental offices on site. Gillespie County Airport, in Fredericksburg, receives mostly small and private planes. The majority of visitors to Fredericksburg come through Austin or San Antonio.
AUSTIN
WHAT TO DO
See the Bats: Congress Avenue Bridge at Lady Bird Lake
Each day at dusk, spectators gather on the banks of Lady Bird Lake (known to locals as Town Lake) to watch the nocturnal creatures take flight - a truly spectacular sight.
The State Capitol: 1100 Congress Ave., 512-463-0063
Like everything in Texas, the capitol building is big - and beautiful to boot. Take a tour and see where the Republicans and Democrats of the Lone Star State duke it out.
Blanton Art Museum: 200 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 512-471-7324, blantonmuseum.org
Collections at the recently opened fine art museum include Latin American, American and European paintings and drawings. Now on exhibit: "Turner to Monet."
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel St. Cecilia: 112 Academy Dr., 512-852-2400, hotelsaintcecilia.com
With a mission to "stir the artist and poet in each of us," the Hotel St. Cecilia is right at home in South Austin, surrounded by an abundance of hip shops, music venues and restaurants. Neither fancy nor fussy, the lodgings here (including studios, suites and bungalows) are designed just so and create an atmosphere of simplicity, comfort and bohemian elegance. Rooms $295-$500.
The Driskill: 604 Brazos St., 512-474-5911, driskillhotel.com
An old-school luxury hotel, the Driskill once was the preferred stop for oil and cattlemen coming to town to do business. Now hosting everyone from media types to families to modern-day oilmen, the hotel is still the picture-perfect establishment for Texas-style elegance and comfort. Rooms $215-$495.
The Austin Motel: 1220 S. Congress Ave., 512-441-1157, austinmotel.com
For a great downtown location with clean rooms, the Austin Motel is the perfect choice. Each room, whether poolside or not, offers visitors a taste of Austin like no other hotel in this price range can. Rooms $80-$178.
WHERE TO DINE
Vino Vino: 4119 Guadalupe St., 512-465-9282, vinovinoaustin.com, $$
Though its bountiful small plates and entrees are delicious, Vino Vino is best known for its sensational wine list, which has racked up multiple awards in the past few years. It's a cozy venue that often features live music.
Uchi: 801 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-916-4808, uchiaustin.com, $$-$$$
Sushi in Texas? You're kidding, right? Absolutely not. Uchi has arrived on the scene and seems to do everything perfectly. From sushi and sashimi to the tempura and sake menu, Japanese food has never been so at home.
Food Trailers: $
Food trailers are all the rage in Austin. Stop by for all manner of delectable dining, ranging from tongue-in-cheek doughnut concoctions at Gourdough's (1219 S. Lamar Blvd., gourdoughs.com) to Texas' favorite food, tacos, at Torchy's Taco's (multiple locations, torchystacos.com) to upscale but unfussy "farm to trailer" offerings at Odd Duck Trailer (1219 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-695-6922, oddduckfarmtotrailer.com).
The Salt Lick: 18300 Farm to Market Rd. 1826, Driftwood, Texas, 512-858-4959, saltlickbbq.com, $-$$
No trip to Austin is complete without a pilgrimage 20 miles southeast of the city to Driftwood and the famed Salt Lick restaurant. Barbecue never tasted so good, especially the beef brisket and sausage. All made on-site over a sweet-smelling pit, the Salt Lick has been an Austin institution for more than 40 years. It's BYOB, and they'll put your beer on ice for you.
WHERE TO SHOP
Shops along South Congress Avenue ("SoCo")
A stretch of funky shops runs several blocks along South Congress and features such quirky establishments as Austin Art Glass (1608 S. Congress Ave., 512-916-4527, austinartglass.com), where you'll find exquisite blown-glass works; Uncommon Objects (1512 S. Congress Ave., 512-442-4000, uncommonobjects.com), a collective that purveys home- decor items; Mi Casa (1700 S. Congress Ave., 512-707-9797, micasagallery.com), selling Mexican folk art and religious objects; and Allens Boots (1522 S. Congress Ave., 512-447-1413, allensboots.com), which has offered spectacular boots and other cowboy wear since 1977.
Waterloo Records: 600A N. Lamar Blvd., 512-474-2500, waterloorecords.com
With new and used CDs by everyone from local singer-songwriters to international pop sensations, plus in-store performances by artists of all genres, this Austin institution is the record store of record in Austin.
El Interior: 1009 W. Lynn St., 512-474-8680, elinterior.com
South-of-the-border textiles, jewelry, furniture, clothing, and home-decor items make this vibrant and eclectic shop a wonderful place to pick up gifts.
Book People: 603 N. Lamar Blvd., 512-472-5050, bookpeople.com
In addition to a deep stock of literature, nonfiction and the like generally found in large chain bookstores, Book People promotes Texas writers and holds many in-store readings and events. It also sells Texas-themed souvenirs.
NIGHTLIFE
On any given night in Austin there are hundreds of live-music events. No club in town captures the Austin live-music spirit quite like the Continental Club (1315 S. Congress Ave., 512-441-2444, continentalclub.com). Acts ranging from rockabilly to blues to Western swing and more take the stage nightly. The Broken Spoke (3201 S. Lamar Blvd., 512-442-6189, brokenspokeaustintx.com) is another Austin institution. Two-step the night away in the low-ceilinged, historied South Austin dance hall. Austinchronicle.com lists nightly club shows, and there's always the South by Southwest Music Festival (sxsw.com) every spring.
FREDERICKSBURG
WHAT TO DO
Admiral Nimitz Foundation & National Museum of the Pacific War: 340 E. Main St., 830-997-8600, nimitz-museum.org
Although this museum may have special appeal for veterans and their families, the thorough collections of historical memorabilia, including maps, weaponry and films, will attract anyone with an interest in World War II.
Vineyards & Wine Tours
Vineyards are cropping up all over the Texas Hill Country, offering tours, tastings, and special events in this now-established wine region. Local highlights include the Chisholm Trail Winery (2367 Usener Rd., 830-990-2675, chisholmtrailwinery.com) and Rancho Ponte (315 Ranch Rd. 1376, 830-990-8555, ranchoponte.com). For a comprehensive list of wineries in the area, go to texaswinetrail.com.
Enchanted Rock: 16710 Ranch Road 965, 830-685-3636
Those looking to get active outdoors should pay a visit to Enchanted Rock, a spectacular granite dome just outside Fredericksburg. It has long been a hot spot for fantastic hiking, bird-watching, picnicking, rock climbing and general recreation.
WHERE TO STAY
Angels Lodge Above the Creek: 415 E. Austin St., 830-997-1615, angelsabovethecreek.com
For cozy, but not cloying, country accommodations just a block off Main Street, choose Angels Lodge Above the Creek. The in-room breakfast and the creekside pool make this an especially appealing choice. Rooms $149-$245; up to $475 for River House.
Hangar Hotel: 155 Airport Rd., 830-997-9990, hangarhotel.com
Located at the Gillespie County Airport in Fredericksburg, the Hangar Hotel is designed to look like an actual airport hangar, and the rooms are designed for upscale comfort, the kind expected of a boutique hotel. Grab a meal at the Airport Diner, where you can watch planes land while you eat. Rooms $119-$169.
WHERE TO EAT
Biergartens: $
Biergartens are the thing in this Germanic town. Two of the most fun are The Ausländer (323 E. Main St., 830-997-7714, theauslander.com), which offers traditional German bar food, live music and more beers on tap than you can swing a stein at. Altdorf's (301 W. Main St., 830-997-7865, altdorfbiergarten-fbg.com), in addition to sausages and kraut, offers a great burger. Those looking for an alternative to German food will enjoy the Fredericksburg Brewing Co. (245 E. Main St., 830-997-1646, yourbrewery.com), which has sandwiches, pizzas and salads.
The Peach Tree : 210 S. Adams St., 830-997-9527, peach-tree.com, $
The Peach Tree is perfect for no-frills but still classic dining, with menu choices such as Tuscan chicken salad and their famous quiche. The gift gallery is a charming spot to pick up a few (edible) souvenirs.
WHERE TO SHOP
House.Wine.: 327 E. Main St., 830-997-2665, intohousewine.com
Stop into house.wine, a combination wine bar and furniture store, where you can enjoy the local grape while browsing fine home furnishings.
Fromage du Monde: 226 W. Main St., 830-992-3134, fromagedumonde.com
Gourmet cheeses, vinegars, breads and spices are the main attractions in this mouthwatering shop.
