Robert Downey Jr. looks slick in his "Iron Man 2" get-up, but don't expect to see other guys this season as bulky or wrinkle-free. That's because today's menswear looks, evolving for a few years now, fall into two basic camps: slim fits and - sorry, mom - kinda rumpled. Sometimes both.

"A slimmed-down suit will actually make a man appear more fit, rather than trying to hide insecurities with a baggy, oversized silhouette," notes GQ creative director Jim Moore.

Weekend wear is trimmer, too, but relaxed, worn-looking, not pristine, notes Tom Julian, trend expert and author of the new "Nordstrom Guide to Men's Everyday Dressing" (Chronicle, $17.95). Look for distressed denim, chambray or the ubiquitous (never ironed) plaid button-down, and military shirts.

"I layer the military over V-neck tees," Julian says. "And I'm partial to the five-pocket pant," he adds, preferring the jeans-like cut (and comfort), but dressier look (wear them with blazers or light leather jackets).

When in doubt, both Julian and Moore agree, stick to flat-front pants, not pleats, which only make dudes look heavier. Even Iron Man can't fight that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hats make a mini-comeback

Blame it on JFK. When Kennedy ran for President, he bagged the traditional fedora - which most pols wore back then. He won. Hats didn't. (Most men subsequently tossed theirs.) There've been holdouts - rockers (Pete Doherty), actors (Samuel Jackson) - but now you'll catch regular dudes in full-fledged hats. Chapeau of choice: the trilby, aka the stingy (due to its narrow brim).

"Men are rediscovering hats-they add freshness to an outfit without breaking the bank," says Ciomi McCabe, designer of Block Headwear (here, Block's straw/linen version, $53, at Saks Fifth Avenue stores and saksfifthavenue.com).

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