FUN FOOD IN NEW HYDE PARK

Say ¡Hola! to K. Pacho, which takes over the former space of Two Steak & Sushi Den in New Hyde Park. Same executive chef -- James McDevitt -- but a Mexican cantina theme and a lower price point. New decor, too.

K. Pacho Cocina and Tequila is its formal name, a play on the expression ¡Que pacho! which, loosely translates to: What fun! This according to co-owner Jay Grossman of the Four Food Studio Restaurant Group, who described the cuisine as "not traditional Mexican but fun Mexican."

A case in point is Frito pie ($14), a riff on classic nachos made with chili, beans and cheese presented in a Frito corn chip plastic bag. Guacamole made table-side ($12) can be upgraded with lump crabmeat and mango ($18). McDevitt also puts his own spin on fish tacos made with soft corn tortillas ($10), grilled skirt steak cazuelas, a fajita-style entree ($19), and Jalisco-style pork tenderloin ($18). Margaritas made with all-natural ingredients cost $8.

K. Pacho Cocina and Tequila is at 1270 Union Tpke., New Hyde Park; 516-358-2222. -- JOAN REMINICK


KOSHER PIZZA IN ROSLYN

Roslyn Village Pizza, situated across from the Roslyn LIRR station, may appear to be an ordinary pizzeria. In ways, though, it's a world apart.

To start, it's kosher. And until last week, the place served sushi. Israeli-American owner Nir Blum said he's sticking, for now, with pizza as well as borekas -- flaky turnovers -- along with panini and other sandwiches, many of them of Middle Eastern origin.

At lunch recently, I sampled a slice of crisp grandma pie ($3) topped with a lively tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella plus a basil leaf. A stuffed vegetable slice ($3.25) was a sorry, soggy affair. That flub was forgotten the moment I tasted the borekas ($3.50 each) -- one filled with mushrooms and potatoes, the other with cheese, both irresistible. Better yet was a sabih ($5.95) -- a Middle Eastern sandwich on a fluffy Israeli pita stuffed with fried eggplant, hummus, a hard-boiled egg, Israeli salad and pickles. On the side: tahini sauce plus a fiery Yemenite condiment. Not quite what you'd expect at your average neighborhood pizza parlor. The eatery also is used occasionally for karaoke nights.

Roslyn Village Pizza is at 295 Warner Ave., Roslyn Heights; 516-484-5777. -- JOAN REMINICK


IN JAMES BEARD'S HOUSE

Lia Fallon, chef at Amarelle restaurant in Wading River, is slated to prepare dinner on March 7 at the James Beard House in Manhattan. The cost is $170 to the public.

Fallon, whose New American eatery earned a 21/2-star rating from Newsday, will offer a five-course meal. The menu includes Long Island clam chowder, local cod cakes, braised rabbit, blackened buffalo hanger steak and a chocolate marquise.

The James Beard House is at 167 W. 12th St. in Greenwich Village. For reservations, call 212-627-2308. -- PETER M. GIANOTTI

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