The mango-spicy tuna roll is served with crab and caviar...

The mango-spicy tuna roll is served with crab and caviar at 110 Japan restaurant in Huntington Station. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

Gift-wrapped and ready, 110 Japan opens opposite the Walt Whitman Shops, just in time for the holiday rush.

The sprawling restaurant takes over and overhauls the former site of East Buffet and, later, Best Buffet. Definitely fancified and certainly improved, owner Sonny Ling's showcase offers a colorful, something-for-everyone approach.

It's a three-way experience, from the bright, blue-light lounge with horseshoe banquettes and TV screens, to the more serene main dining room and sushi bar, and the 12-table, spatula-clanging, hibachi space that provides sound effects throughout.

The eye-catching presentations for much of the food suit the surroundings. The flavors, while neither bold nor subtle, are fresh and focused. Given the size of the place, you can arrive with about 350 of your closest friends.

Start with sashimi or nigirizushi. There's fine fatty tuna, fluke and striped bass. And, to splurge, consider the chef's choice tasting menu, or omakase, a creative and very satisfying route, where you might find a dish such as a split, deep-fried, tuna-stuffed jalapeño pepper. Omakase is $50 and up.

Naturally, 110 Japan presents a Walt Whitman Roll, minus leaves of grass, but bringing together yellowtail, cucumber and jalapeño inside; peppery tuna and chili-pepper seasoned salmon outside, for a colorful, tasty choice. The Mafia Roll, finished with black rice, whacks some of its rivals with lobster tempura and avocado, wasabi-spiked lobster salad, and seared pepper tuna, with eel sauce and spicy mayo. But it's an offer you can refuse. Likewise, dull tuna pizza and pasty tuna ravioli. There's no yakuza roll.

The Miyazaki roll is a turf-on-surf combo, with the seared beef on top, and completed with lobster salad, cucumber, asparagus and Japanese curry sauce. Preferable: the Miyazaki short ribs, long-braised and flavorful, sauced similarly to Korean kalbi. And beefeaters should segue to the tender basil filet mignon, a snappy stir-fry in Thai basil sauce, which has a hint of anise.

Almost as good are the duck spring roll, sauced almost like Beijing duck; and salmon teriyaki, lacquered and on the sweet side. Vegetable and shrimp tempura could be crisper. Fluke tiradito, with avocado aioli, is about as far removed from the Peruvian specialty as Route 110 is from the Plaza de Armas.

No need for dessert, unless tempura-fried banana beckons. Besides, it will slow you down, -- on Black Friday and beyond.

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